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THE GREAT LIVING CHOLA TEMPLES, PART 3 of 3 : DARASURAM (தாராசுரம்)

The Chola Dynasty (300 BC – 1279 CE) of Southern India were followers of Shaivism and great patrons of arts, literature & poetry . Chola Kings (Tamil : சோழர்) were one among the most prominent rulers of India, who built several Shiva Temples around the world, many of these are still in existence. ‘The Great Living Chola Temples’ the name given to a group of three architectural marvels built by the Chola Kings, still exist at Thanjavur, Gangaikondacholapuram and Darasuram in TamilNadu. These three temples are unique for their Dravidian architecture and incredible artistic skills. The mighty Brihadeeswarar temple ( Read about it here ) at Thanjavur (Big Temple, Peruvudaiyar Kovil) was completed in 1010 AD by emperor Raja Raja Chola I (985–1014 AD) . Brihadeeswarar temple which turned 1000 years old in 2010 is one of the biggest temples in India and a World Heritage Monument of UNESCO. Rajendra Chola-I (1012-1044 AD) son of the Great Rajaraja-I who believed to have conquered the lands upto Ganga river in North was known as Gangaikondacholan . He was one of the most famous Chola Kings whose Kingdom spread across most parts of Southern India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Sumatra, Kadaram (now Kedah in Malaysia) and […]

Oct 28

by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage 6 comments tags: architecture, blog, buddha, buddhism, buddhist, caves, cut, elephanta, ellora, ferry, gateway, gharapuri mural, gop.org, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, heritage, hindu, hinduism, india, MUMBAI, of, photography, rock, shiva, shrine, site, temple, Temples, tourism, unesco, WORLD

EXQUISITE ELEPHANTA CAVES

Artillery firing continued profusely for weeks and months without having a single enemy in the vicinity. In fact, the Portuguese soldiers were firing cannon balls at the mighty rock sculptures in Elephanta caves for target practicing. A journey through the timeline of explorations, invasions and colonization would reveal the bloodshed and destruction that accompanied every successful event. Successors of those ruthless invaders who turned the treasures of a great country into heaps of rubble and sand must feel ashamed of their forefathers’ deeds. While we boast about the rich culture and heritage of India, those disturbing facts are often being ignored. Gharapuri was the name of that ancient island kingdom situated near Mumbai harbour. Gharapuri literally means ‘City of Caves’ in Marathi language. Traces of early inhabitation that dates back to 2nd century BC is still visible in this little island. For travelers visiting Mumbai, it would be a quick escapade from the hustle and bustle of one of the largest cities in the world. The island consists of two small hillocks on its east and west sides with a narrow ravine situated in the middle. Caves and sculptures have been carved out of Basalt rock similar to that existed […]

Sep 09

by GOPAN NAIR in travel, Wonders of Nature 4 comments tags: agumbe, bangalore, chikmagalur, forest, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, hills, karnataka, king cobra, Kundadry, rain, rain forest, research, sringeri, temple, trek, trip, udupi, village, Vishveshwarayya

AGUMBE : LIVING THE RAINS

‘Petrichor’ is the name for the earthy scent that emerges when fresh rain hits the soil after a long gap. This Greek word is a combination of two words ‘Petra’ (stone) and ‘Ichor’ which literally means the fluid that passes through the veins of Gods. People say this sweet fragrance has a rejuvenating effect on the body, perhaps it is more of a psychological reason because our ancestors considered rain as an essential element for survival. Scientifically speaking, when rain drops hit dry soil, the tiny pores on the earth release small bubbles of plant oils, bacteria and Ozone into the air which causes the scent. Though large amount of Ozone could be dangerous to human lungs, the actual amount being released during this event is negligible. I think we are drifting away from our main subject. Let’s talk about the places where rain has become the part and parcel of daily life. ‘Cherrapunji’ in the North Eastern corner of India was once known as the wettest place on the planet and it still holds the Guinness Book record for maximum rainfall received at a place. A less-known place called ‘Agumbe’ on the Western Ghats is called the ‘Cherrapunji of […]

Oct 22

by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage, travel 4 comments tags: ajanta, architecture, aurangabad, blog, buddha, buddhism, buddhist, caves, cut, ellora, gop.org, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, heritage, hindu, hinduism, india, jain, jaina, Kailasa, Kailasanatha, Kailasha, monastery, mural, photography, river, rock, site, temple, Temples, tourism, USESCO, WORLD

ENCHANTING ELLORA

Ellora Cave Complex is situated 29 Kms North-West of Aurangabad, a prominent city located 300 Kms away from Mumbai in India. The name Ellora has been derived from Elapura, what the place was originally known as. Carved out of Volcanic basalt rock, this group of temples and monasteries are dedicated to Buddhism, Hinduism and Jainism spanning between 600-1000 AD. Out of a hundred caves discovered, 34 are accessible to the public today. Millions of years back, ancient volcanic lava flowed past the Deccan plateau and solidified to form multiple layers of fine-grain basaltic rock. Evidence of early human settlement dating back to upper Palaeolithic period (10,000 to 20,000 years old) has been located in this area. Ellora had a close proximity to a famous trade route since the Satavahana dynasty’s period (271 BC to 30 BC). Perhaps that was the reason why Ellora never got abandoned and lost to oblivion like Ajanta caves. (Read about Ajanta here>>) Though the exact period of construction has not been traced out, it is believed that this spectacular architecture was the contribution from King Krishna#1 of Rashtrakuta dynasty (760 AD). The written records of Arab travellers who visited Ellora during 10th century give us a […]

Jun 01

by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage, travel 6 comments tags: achyutharaya, ancient, anegondi, anegundi, Anjanadri, Bali, birth, blog, boulder, bukka, cave, dynasty, Gagan Mahal, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, hakka, hampi, Hanuman, Hazararama, hill, india, karnataka, Kishkinda, Kishkindha, krishnadevaraya, mathanga, Onake Kindi, paintings, Pampa Sarovar, photography, place, Ramayana, Rishimuka, ruins, Shabari, Sugreeva, Sugriva, temple, tungabhadra, Vali, Vali Quila, Vijayanagara, vittala

THE RIVER AND BEYOND… ANEGUNDI

Let’s embark on a time machine… It is going to be a journey back into the past to witness history spanning 5000 years or more. The story begins with river Pampa (Tungabhadra), the lifeline of a great civilization that existed in the southern state of Karnataka in India. Anegundi is a peaceful little village situated just opposite to Hampi, on the northern bank of river Tungabhadra; a place where evolution, history, mythology and folklore co-exist. Anegundi (or Anegondi, ಆನೆಗುಂದಿ/ಆನೆಗೊಂದಿ) is a Kannada word which means “Elephant pit”. It was the early capital of Vijayanagara empire, before it got shifted to Hampi. It was probably named after the king’s elephant stables originally located here. Read more about Hampi & Vijayanagara empire here >> As per earth scientists, the rock formations in this area could be 3000 Million years old, making it one of the oldest plateaus on our planet. That means it was one of the first places to get solidified during earth’s cooling process. Traces of early human settlements have been located in certain parts of Anegundi. Neolithic (Stone-age) burial grounds and primitive cave paintings found here attract research students, historians and geologists alike. You may please go through my blog […]

Feb 26

by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage, travel 16 comments tags: achyutharaya, ancient, anegundi, blog, boulder, bukka, dynasty, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, hakka, hampi, Hazararama, hill, india, karnataka, krishnadevaraya, malyavanta, mathanga, photography, Purandara Dasa, ruins, talikota, temple, tuluva, tungabhadra, Vijayanagara, vittala, war

HAMPI, WHERE RUINS COME ALIVE !

A river constitutes the blood and veins of a country. Most of the ancient civilizations formed and developed on the banks of rivers and so was the history of Vijayanagara empire. Once you dig deep into the history of this place, it turns to folklore and refers back to mythology as well. The river Pampa was the lifeline of a great civilization that existed in the southern state of Karnataka in India. Traces of early settlements could be found on the Northern side of river (Anegundi) that points to the epic Ramayana and the monkey kingdom Kishkindha. Read about Anegundi here >> Southern banks of the river witnessed a series of battles and events that date back to the period of Emperor Ashoka (3rd century BC). Kannada word Hampe was derived from Pampa and in turn called Hampi due to British influence. River Pampa is known as Tungabhadra now, which still flows silently between the ruins of Vijayanagara empire. That arouses the curiosity of every traveler. What would have led to the decline of such a great empire ? Tunga & Bhadra rivers originate from Western Ghats, pass through the plains of Karnataka until they merge together 150 Kms down east, […]

Oct 31

DEVOTION, DEEP INSIDE THE JUNGLE : THIRUNELLI TEMPLE

Thirunelli MahaVishnu Temple is one of the oldest and sacred shrines in Kerala. ‘Thiru Nelli’ literally means Holy Gooseberry tree (Amla). According to ancient Hindu scriptures or puranas, Lord Brahma got attracted by the beauty of this valley and descended here. He noticed an idol of Lord Vishnu on a gooseberry tree. Realizing the presence of Lord Vishnu, he installed the idol there and blessed the temple to be the one that washes of all the sins. Hence the water stream here got the name Papanasini. Situated in Wayanad district of Kerala, Thirunelli temple is surrounded by incredibly green mountains of Brahmagiri ranges adjoining Western Ghats. Thirunelli is Located in north Wayanad, 34 Km away from Mananthavady. The exact age of this temple is not known. According to historians, the temple could be 3000 years old what makes it one of the oldest temples in Kerala. It is also believed that Chera King Kulasekharan (AD 767 – 834) was the founder of this temple. Copper plate inscriptions discovered from the area date back to the period of Bhaskara Ravi Varma I and II (10th and 11th century). Remains of the original temple is still visible around the premises. Some of […]

Sep 26

by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage, travel 2 comments tags: Achutaraya, bangalore, day, empire, ganesh, getaway, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, idol, Le Pakshi, Lepakshi, linga, naga, one, shiva, temple, trip, Veerabhadra, Vijayanagara, Virupanna

BANGALORE WEEKEND GETAWAY SERIES : LEPAKSHI TEMPLE

“Le Pakshi,” in Telugu language means “Rise, Bird”. The name comes from epic Ramayana, in which Lord Rama meets dying Jatayu and blesses him to rise to heaven. Ancient Hindu scripture Skandapurana mentions about Lepakshi ( “Lepakshya Papanasanah” ) as one among the 108 prominent Shaivite pilgrimage centres in Southern India. There is another story that says Lepakshi was derived from ‘Lepa + Akshi’ which means ‘embalmed eye’. Lepakshi is an ideal place for a weekend drive from Bangalore. It is a small village in Anantapur District of Andhra Pradesh, India, located approximately 120 Km north of Bangalore. It lies 15 km away from Hindupur in Anantapur District of Andhra Pradesh. Lepakshi Temple is mainly dedicated to Lord Veerabhadra (a form of Shiva), which was built during the period of Vijayanagara Kings (1336–1646) . The temple dates back to AD-1530, built on a small hillock having the shape of a tortoise, hence known as Kurma Saila. As per historians, the temple was constructed by two brothers called Virupanna and Viranna, who were Governors under the reign of King Achutaraya. There is another interesting story about the construction of this temple. Virupanna, the treasurer of Vijayanagara Kingdom was handling the funds […]

Aug 29

BANGALORE WEEKEND GETAWAY SERIES : BHOGA NANDEESHWARA TEMPLE

There are several interesting places in and around Bangalore city, suitable for a weekend roundup. One such place is Bhoga Nandeeshwara Temple, an architectural masterpiece located by the foothills of Nandi Hills situated around 55Km from the city centre. The little Nandi village comes 18 Km ahead of Devanahalli (Bangalore International Airport) on the Bangalore-Hyderabad Highway. As per archaeological survey of India, the original temple dates back to 806-810 AD, built in typical Dravidian style by Bana Queen Ratnavali. It came under the patronage of several dynasties like Gangas, Cholas, Hoysalas, Pallavas, Vijayanagara kings and even Tipu Sultan in later stages. The temple has undergone modifications by various rulers , until the region came under British rule in 1799, after the death of Tipu Sultan. There are two major shrines in the temple complex. The Arunachaleswara temple on southern corner was built by the Gangas of Talakad , ( Read about Talakad here> ) and the Bhoga Nandeeshwara Temple on the northern side was constructed by the Chola Kings. Sculpture of a king could be found inside the temple complex, believed to be that of Rajendra Chola. Bhoga Nandeeshwara temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva in various stages of life . Arunachaleswara […]

Jun 18

KOTACHADRI : ADVENTURE MEETS WITH DEVOTION

Kodachadri peaks in the Western Ghats, located in the Shimoga district of Karnataka is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful tourist destinations in India. A trip to Kodachadri could be an unforgettable experience for nature-enthusiasts, trekkers, photographers and adventurous drivers. Kodachadri is situated 1343 meters above sea level and around 30 Kms away from the temple town Kollur. Surrounded by lush green hills, it is home to a wide variety of wildlife and tropical vegetation. The valley has been declared as a natural heritage site by the state government . The name Kodachadri (Kodachadri in Kannada, Kutajadri in Sanskrit and Malayalam കുടജാദ്രി) is derived from Sanskrit words ‘Kutaja’ and ‘Adri’ . Kutaja is a kind of Mountain Jasmine flower (കുടകപ്പാല, Kutakappaala or Giri-Mallika) and Adri means hill. Kutaja plant has Ayurvedic medicinal properties too. The panoramic view from the top of Kodachadri peak is mesmerizing . The mountain top is accessible by an adventurous trekking trail of around 9 to 12 km through dense forest. This trek is meant for physically fit people and requires special permission from the forest department. It could also be reached by an off-road jeep route of around 30 Km from Kollur town. The last […]

POETRY IN STONE : MADANIKAS OF BELUR

Name of the Hoysala empire comes from Kannada folklore that tells the story of a young man called Sala who fights and kills a lion (or tiger) to save his Master Sudatta. “Hoy, Sala” in Kannada language means “Strike Sala” which became the name of the dynasty he founded. The pictorial representation of this incident became the emblem of Hoysala empire too. A statue of Sala fighting the lion welcomes you at the entrance of Chennakesava temple at Belur. The temple was built during the rule of Vishnuvardhana of the Hoysala dynasty in 12th Century AD. According to the legend, Chief Architects of Chennakeshava Temple were ‘Amarashilpi Jakanacharya’ and his son ‘Dankanacharya’. Please go through my detailed article on the history of Belur & Halebid by clicking here. Chennakesava temple is well-known for extremely fine carvings, sculptures and motifs on its outer walls. The most famous and exquisite ones among these are the 42 well-carved bracket figures known as Madanikas (Chaste Maidens or Salabhanjikas). 38 of these are placed outside the temple while 4 of them could be found inside. Vishnuvardhana’s Queen Shantala Devi was considered to be the epitome of perfect feminine beauty and the Madanika sculptures were crafted by portraying the queen […]

May 18

A SNEAK PEAK INTO HOYSALA HISTORY : BELAVADI & ARSIKERE

“Hoy, Sala !” in Kannada language means “Strike Sala !”, a dialogue that comes from Kannada folklore. As per the story, a young boy called Sala fought with a lion (or tiger) and saved his Jain Guru named Sudatta. The young warrior became the founder of an empire called ‘Hoysala’ and a depiction of this incident was adopted as the emblem of Hoysala dynasty. Hoysala Empire ruled the Deccan Plateau region of Southern India between the 10th and 14th centuries. They developed their own style of architecture and built a number of impeccable masterpieces around the kingdom, thus leaving their cultural imprint in and around the region. Several of these architectural wonders still exist in Karnataka, the most prominent ones are listed below in chronological order : Click the name of a temple to go through a photo tour. TEMPLE PLACE YEAR KING Chennakesava Belur 1117 Vishnuvardhana Hoysaleswara Halebidu 1120 Vishnuvardhana Kedareshwara Halebidu 1200 Veera Ballala II Veeranarayana Belavadi 1200 Veera Ballala II Ishvara (Shivalaya) Arsikere 1220 Veera Ballala II Kesava Somanathapura 1268 Narasimha III VEERA NARAYANA TEMPLE, BELAVADI Belavadi is a little village located 10 km north-west of Halebid (Halebeedu), the ancient capital of Hoysala kingdom. Belavadi is also known […]

FACE TO FACE WITH HISTORY :: BELUR & HALEBID

Belur (ಬೇಲೂರು) was the early capital of Hoysala Empire. Halebidu is located 16 km away from Belur, both belong to the Hassan district and among the major tourist destinations in Karnataka. Belur is situated by the banks of river Yagachi, a tributary of river Kaveri . It is around 222 Km from Bangalore. The main attraction in Belur is the Chennakesava temple, which is famous for its exquisite carvings and Hoysala workmanship. ‘Chenna’ Kesava literally means ‘Handsome Vishnu’ who is the main deity of this temple, being worshipped in the centre of the temple complex, surrounded by Kappe Chennigraya temple and a few other shrines. The temple was built by King Vishnuvardhana in 1117 CE, to commemorate his victory over the Cholas at Talakkad . (read about Talakkad here). Legend has it that the construction of this temple took 103 years. This style of detailed and intricate carving is typical to the Hoysala temples of Karnataka and it portrays scenes from Hindu mythology as well as the contemporary culture, art forms and weaponry. The material used for carving is known as Soapstone (Green schist) which gives them the incredible finish . The soft version of soapstone could be shaped even using our […]

Jan 27

GREAT INDIAN ARCHITECTURE SERIES :: SOMANATHPURA

Chennakesava Temple was constructed in 1268 C.E by Soma, a Dandanayaka (commander) during the reign of King Narasimha III in the Hoysala Kingdom. Such detailed and intricate carving style is typical to the Hoysala temples of Karnataka. These masterpieces were carved out of Soapstone (Green schist) which gives them the incredible finish . Unlike granite or marble, the soft version of soapstone could be shaped even using our finger nails. Instead of the usual hammer/chiselling process with stones, most of such pillars & sculptures were made by lathe turning or scraping motion of the tools. A bit of polishing using oil would give them life-like appearance too. The side walls have been exquisitely carved, portraying the cavalry, elephants and scenes from the epics like Mahabharat, Ramayan & Bhagavat. From the extreme detailing of the sculpures influenced by the culture, clothing, dances, jewelry, weaponry etc, research students could learn a lot about history of that period. This Vaishnava temple has an east-facing building with a strong boundary wall (prakara) and three shrines (trikuta) constructed over a star shaped platform (jagati). The temple is equally beautiful compared to Belur & Halebid temples of the similar architecture. (Read about Belur & Halebid here). […]

THE GREAT LIVING CHOLA TEMPLES, PART 3 of 3 : DARASURAM (தாராசுரம்)

EXQUISITE ELEPHANTA CAVES

AGUMBE : LIVING THE RAINS

ENCHANTING ELLORA

THE RIVER AND BEYOND… ANEGUNDI

HAMPI, WHERE RUINS COME ALIVE !

DEVOTION, DEEP INSIDE THE JUNGLE : THIRUNELLI TEMPLE

BANGALORE WEEKEND GETAWAY SERIES : LEPAKSHI TEMPLE

BANGALORE WEEKEND GETAWAY SERIES : BHOGA NANDEESHWARA TEMPLE

KOTACHADRI : ADVENTURE MEETS WITH DEVOTION

POETRY IN STONE : MADANIKAS OF BELUR

A SNEAK PEAK INTO HOYSALA HISTORY : BELAVADI & ARSIKERE

FACE TO FACE WITH HISTORY :: BELUR & HALEBID

GREAT INDIAN ARCHITECTURE SERIES :: SOMANATHPURA

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