Thirunelli MahaVishnu Temple stands as one of the most ancient and revered places of worship in Kerala. The name ‘Thiru Nelli’ translates to Holy Gooseberry tree (Amla). According to the sacred Hindu texts or puranas, Lord Brahma was captivated by the beauty of this valley and chose to descend upon it. It was then that he discovered an idol of Lord Vishnu situated on a gooseberry tree. Recognizing the divine presence of Lord Vishnu, Lord Brahma consecrated the idol at the site and bestowed blessings upon the temple, declaring it as a sanctum that absolves all sins. As a result, the water stream in this area came to be known as Papanasini.
Thirunelli temple, situated in the Wayanad district of Kerala, is surrounded by the lush green mountains of the Brahmagiri ranges, which are adjacent to the Western Ghats. It is located in north Wayanad, 34 kilometers away from Mananthavady. The exact age of the temple is unknown, but historians believe it could be 3000 years old, making it one of the oldest temples in Kerala. According to popular belief, the temple was founded by Chera King Kulasekharan (AD 767 – 834). Copper plate inscriptions discovered in the area date back to the period of Bhaskara Ravi Varma I and II (10th and 11th century).
The original temple’s remnants are still evident throughout the area. Certain stone pillars and structures suffered partial damage during Tippu Sultan’s invasion and were further destroyed by the British. King Pazhassi and the Kodaga rulers undertook renovations of the temple on multiple occasions in the past.
Legend has it that Lord Brahma personally carries out the rituals at this temple each day prior to sunrise. The chief priest of the temple traditionally performs five poojas daily and places certain pooja items inside the temple every evening for Brahma to perform the sixth pooja. Thirunelli temple is renowned for conducting ancestral rites (bali tarpana), attracting numerous pilgrims who come to the Papanasini river to seek blessings for their ancestors. Hence, it is often referred to as the ‘Kashi of the South’.
On the western side of the temple, there is a pathway that leads to the Papanasini river, which is located half a kilometer inside the jungle. Further along, you will come across a sacred temple pond known as Panchatheertham. In the center of the pond, there is a rock structure bearing the footprints of Vishnu. In the past, there were five water streams flowing into the pond, hence the name Panchatheertham. Unfortunately, four of these channels have been destroyed over time, leaving only one as the sole water source for the pond. Adjacent to the pond, you will find a small cave temple called Gunnika, dedicated to Lord Shiva.
A fascinating feature found within the temple grounds is an ancient Stone Aqueduct that transports water to the temple from deep within the jungle. In the past, water was transported to the temple from the Papanasini river. When a drought struck, the queen of Chirackal Raja was unable to find water anywhere and instructed her attendants to come up with a permanent solution to the water shortage. They built an aqueduct using granite pillars and channels through which fresh, cold water still flows continuously to this day. We attempted to trace the source of this stream by walking along the channel, but the area was infested with leeches and other reptiles, so we abandoned the idea.
Pakshipathalam, situated approximately 10 kilometers away from Thirunelli, serves as a captivating trekking spot. Those with a spirit for adventure and a love for nature can secure permission from the forest department to embark on a journey through the jungle, where they can witness a variety of exquisite butterflies and birds. It is advisable to have a trained guide accompany the trekking expedition due to the potential presence of wild animals in the vicinity.
When traveling towards Thirunelli from either Karnataka or Kerala, you will come across a Y-Intersection on Thettu Road between Tholpetty and Kattikkulam. At this junction, you will find a quaint hotel known as Kuttettan’s Unniyappam, which has been serving customers for more than 50 years. Be sure to try a piece of their renowned unniyappam, a delicious sweet snack made with rice and jaggery.
How to reach :
From Karnataka side : Bangalore – Mysore – Hunsur –Nagarhole – Kutta – Tholpetty -Thirunelli – 258 Km
From Kerala side : Mananthavady – Kattikkulam – Thirunelli – 31 Km
Where to stay :
There is a KTDC Tamarind Hotel located near the Temple. The temple has a well-maintained guest house as well. Couple of home stays are also there in the area.