Water holds a sacred place in Indian culture, being revered as one of the ‘Panch Bhootas’ (Five elements of life) since ancient times. It is believed that life began in water, and the future progress will be centered around it. The foresight of great Indian rulers ensured the survival of the desert state of Rajasthan in the face of nature’s challenges.

In the little-known town of Abhaneri near Jaipur, India, one can find the World’s largest step-well. Originally known as Abha Nagari (The City of Brightness), it was established by King Raja Chand of the Nikumbha Dynasty between the 8th and 9th centuries AD. Ancient Hindu wisdom emphasized the interconnectedness of worship places and nature as a means of protecting the environment. This is demonstrated by the presence of ancient temples in India, often accompanied by functioning wells or ponds.

CHAND BAORI (STEP WELL) IN ABHANERI, RAJASTHAN

CHAND BAORI (STEP WELL) IN ABHANERI, RAJASTHAN

King Chand’s legacy lives on in the form of the magnificent Baori, (step-well or step-pond, बावड़ी or बावली) built in Abhaneri around 825 AD. This architectural marvel, Chand Baori (Chand bawadi in local tongue) measuring 35 meters on each side, 19.5 meters deep, and adorned with 3500 steps in intricate geometric patterns, continues to captivate visitors from all corners of the globe. The well, designed to withstand natural forces, features a square shape and a remarkable engineering that ensured its resilience to earthquakes. Certain step wells used bullock-turned water wheels to lift the water up, but I am not sure about such a mechanism employed here. The main entrance on the northern side leads to pavilions, bath rooms, and resting halls for the royal family, along with multistoried mandaps adorned with worship places dedicated to Ganesha and Durga idols. The lower levels of the well, maintaining a temperature 5 degrees lower than the surface, served as retreats for the royal family during the scorching summer months, while also serving as cleansing chambers before visiting the adjoining Harshat Mata temple. It’s believed that secret underground passages connected the royal bath rooms to the temple. Furthermore, the baori is surrounded by long hallways showcasing artifacts collected from the ruins of the temple. This remarkable structure, with 13 storeys extending underground, was ingeniously filled through rainwater harvesting, providing ample water to the neighboring villages.

SIGNBOARD AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE STEP WELL

PAVILION IN FRONT OF THE STEP WELL

HALLWAYS AROUND THE STEP WELL USED TO DISPLAY ARTIFACTS

At the entrance of the baori, a small Shiva shrine is tended to by a dedicated priest who conducts daily worship. According to the priest, the well was mysteriously constructed in a single day. Unfortunately, the public’s access to the stairs is currently restricted due to safety concerns at the site. Interestingly, this location has been chosen for the filming of several Hollywood and Bollywood movies, including The Fall, The Dark Knight Rises, The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, Bhoomi, and Bhool Bhulaiyaa. Abhaneri village is situated 90 km east of Jaipur and 210 km south of Delhi on the Jaipur-Delhi highway. Skilled artisans continue to make a living in these parts of Rajasthan.

EXQUISITE CARVINGS FOUND IN THE RUINS OF HARSHAT MATA TEMPLE

INCREDIBLY FINE PILLARS DESTROYED BY ISLAMIC INVADERS DISPLAYED AT CHAND BAORI

Located alongside the baori stands the Harshat Mata temple, an astounding architectural wonder devoted to the goddess of happiness and believed to have been constructed between the 7th and 8th century AD. Tragically, this temple fell victim to destruction by the Islamic invader Mahmud Ghazni, though the Archaeological Department of India has since undertaken partial restoration efforts. The site now hosts a collection of exquisitely carved pillars, columns, and idols, albeit in a disheartening state of disarray. Despite the vandalism evident in the defaced statues and damaged artwork, one can still discern the superior craftsmanship that once graced the temple’s entirety. The somber aura surrounding the goddess of happiness was palpable, as reflected in the countenance of the priest who warmly welcomed me. Meanwhile, a group of jovial children engaged in a spirited game of Holi, seemingly unaffected by the sobering historical context, readily posed for my camera, their innocent joy serving as a poignant contrast.

HARSHAT MATA TEMPLE, ABHANERI VILLAGE, RAJASTHAN

FRONT VIEW OF HARSHAT MATA TEMPLE, ABHANERI VILLAGE, RAJASTHAN

INSIDE VIEW OF HARSHAT MATA TEMPLE, ABHANERI VILLAGE, RAJASTHAN

A CLOSER LOOK AT THE WALL CARVINGS INSIDE HARSHAT MATA TEMPLE, ABHANERI VILLAGE, RAJASTHAN

PARTS OF HARSHAT MATA TEMPLE, ABHANERI TURNED TO RUBBLE BY THE INVADERS

VANDALIZED WALLS OF HARSHAT MATA TEMPLE, ABHANERI VILLAGE, RAJASTHAN

EXQUISITE CARVINGS ON HARSHAT MATA TEMPLE, ABHANERI VILLAGE, RAJASTHAN

HAPPY CHILDREN ENJOY HOLI AT ABHANERI

INNOCENT FACES CELEBRATE HOLI AT ABHANERI

As the car audio player fills the air with the enchanting melody of the famous Rajasthani folk song about the Rajput wife remembering her husband who returns after winning a war, “केसरिया बालम आओ नि पधारो म्हारे देस” (Kesariya Balam Padharo Mhare Des…), I find myself being gently lulled by the soothing embrace of sleep.

My journey unfolds amidst the quest for undiscovered lands, untold tales, and the uncelebrated champions of history.