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GOPS CREATIV :: REDISCOVERING MY LOST PASSIONS
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Feb 07
by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage, Life in this India, travel, Uncategorized 8 comments tags: gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, hampi, Hanuman, india, karnataka, kingdom, Kishkinda, Kishkindha, mathanga, monkey, photography, photos, Ramayana, Rishimuka, ruins, tungabhadra, Vijayanagara, vittala

MOODS OF THE MONKEY KINGDOM

This is just a collection of some snapshots from Hampi. As the heading suggests, Hampi is a place that invokes myriad moods. It is a traveller’s paradise, a historian’s delight and every photographer’s treasure land. Enjoy….  
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Dec 05
by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage, travel 17 comments tags: ancient, anegondi, anegundi, art, birth, blog, boulder, bukka, burial, cave, chamber, dolmen, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, Gudda, hampi, hire benekal, hirebenekal, hirebenkal, india, karnataka, Mane, Moryar, Onake Kindi, paintings, rock, rock art, ruins, tungabhadra

HIRE BENAKAL : VALLEY OF THE DEAD !

You have seen the ruins of a great civilization at Hampi. And travelled back in time with me to witness the co-existence of myth and history at Anegundi. We have also discussed about the traces of early human settlement in the region, studied the primitive cave paintings at Onake Kindi. Let me take you further into the past to the mysterious ‘valley of the dead’, where history of ancient human habitation rests in peace. Hire benakal (also called Hirebenakal or Hirebenkal ಹಿರೇಬೆಣಕಲ್) is a little peaceful village next to Anegundi, situated around 50 Km from Hampi. It is one of largest megalithic burial sites (Necropolis) in Karnataka, India, estimated to be 3000 years old. Known as ‘Elu Guddagalu’ in Kannada language, which means ‘Seven hillocks’, this site consists of around 400 megalithic structures (dolmens) built between 800 BCE to 200 BCE  (that falls between Neolithic and the Iron Age periods ). The first reports about this site got published in the Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society by Philip Meadows Taylor in 1835 during the British rule. Though Archaeology Survey of India (ASI) took over the possession of the site in 1955, not much of effort has been made to […]
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Sep 09
by GOPAN NAIR in travel, Wonders of Nature 4 comments tags: agumbe, bangalore, chikmagalur, forest, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, hills, karnataka, king cobra, Kundadry, rain, rain forest, research, sringeri, temple, trek, trip, udupi, village, Vishveshwarayya

AGUMBE : LIVING THE RAINS

‘Petrichor’ is the name for the earthy scent that emerges when fresh rain hits the soil after a long gap. This Greek word is a combination of two words ‘Petra’ (stone) and ‘Ichor’ which literally means the fluid that passes through the veins of Gods. People say this sweet fragrance has a rejuvenating effect on the body, perhaps it is more of a psychological reason because our ancestors considered rain as an essential element for survival. Scientifically speaking, when rain drops hit dry soil, the tiny pores on the earth release small bubbles of plant oils, bacteria and Ozone into the air which causes the scent. Though large amount of Ozone could be dangerous to human lungs, the actual amount being released during this event is negligible. I think we are drifting away from our main subject. Let’s talk about the places where rain has become the part and parcel of daily life. ‘Cherrapunji’ in the North Eastern corner of India was once known as the wettest place on the planet and it still holds the Guinness Book record for maximum rainfall received at a place. A less-known place called ‘Agumbe’ on the Western Ghats is called the ‘Cherrapunji of […]
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Jun 01
by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage, travel 8 comments tags: achyutharaya, ancient, anegondi, anegundi, Anjanadri, Bali, birth, blog, boulder, bukka, cave, dynasty, Gagan Mahal, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, hakka, hampi, Hanuman, Hazararama, hill, india, karnataka, Kishkinda, Kishkindha, krishnadevaraya, mathanga, Onake Kindi, paintings, Pampa Sarovar, photography, place, Ramayana, Rishimuka, ruins, Shabari, Sugreeva, Sugriva, temple, tungabhadra, Vali, Vali Quila, Vijayanagara, vittala

THE RIVER AND BEYOND… ANEGUNDI

Let’s embark on a time machine… It is going to be a journey back into the past to witness history spanning 5000 years or more. The story begins with river Pampa (Tungabhadra),  the lifeline of a great civilization that existed in the southern state of Karnataka in India. Anegundi is a peaceful little village situated just opposite to Hampi, on the northern bank of river Tungabhadra; a place where evolution, history, mythology and folklore co-exist.  Anegundi (or Anegondi, ಆನೆಗುಂದಿ/ಆನೆಗೊಂದಿ) is a Kannada word which means “Elephant pit”. It was the early  capital of Vijayanagara empire, before it got shifted to Hampi. It was probably named after the king’s elephant stables originally located here. Read more about Hampi & Vijayanagara empire here >> As per earth scientists, the rock formations in this area could be 3000 Million years old, making it one of the oldest plateaus on our planet. That means it was one of the first places to get solidified during earth’s cooling process. Traces of early human settlements have been located in certain parts of Anegundi. Neolithic (Stone-age) burial grounds and primitive cave paintings found here attract research students, historians and geologists alike. You may please go through my blog […]
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Feb 26
by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage, travel 20 comments tags: achyutharaya, ancient, anegundi, blog, boulder, bukka, dynasty, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, hakka, hampi, Hazararama, hill, india, karnataka, krishnadevaraya, malyavanta, mathanga, photography, Purandara Dasa, ruins, talikota, temple, tuluva, tungabhadra, Vijayanagara, vittala, war

HAMPI, WHERE RUINS COME ALIVE !

A river constitutes the blood and veins of a country. Most of the ancient civilizations formed and developed on the banks of rivers and so was the history of Vijayanagara empire. Once you dig deep into the history of this place, it turns to folklore and refers back to mythology as well. The river Pampa was the lifeline of a great civilization that existed in the southern state of Karnataka in India. Traces of early settlements could be found on the Northern side of river (Anegundi) that points to the epic Ramayana and the monkey kingdom Kishkindha. Read about Anegundi  here >> Southern banks of the river witnessed a series of battles and events that date back to the period of Emperor Ashoka (3rd century BC).  Kannada word Hampe was derived from Pampa and in turn called Hampi due to British influence. River Pampa is known as Tungabhadra now, which still flows silently  between the ruins of Vijayanagara  empire.  That arouses the curiosity of every traveler. What would have led to the decline of such a great empire ? Tunga & Bhadra rivers originate from Western Ghats, pass through the plains of Karnataka until they merge together 150 Kms down east, […]
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Jun 18
by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage, travel 4 comments tags: Adi Shankara, Arangetram, Arangettam, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops.org, iron, jeep, karnataka, Kodachadri, kollur, kutajadri, mookambika, nature, off-road, peetam, peeth, photography, pillar, river, Sarvagjna, Sarvajna, Sarvajna peetha, Shankara Peetam, shankaracharya, Sharavathi, temple, trek, trekking, western ghat, കുടജാദ്രി

KOTACHADRI : ADVENTURE MEETS WITH DEVOTION

Kodachadri peaks in the Western Ghats, located in the Shimoga district of Karnataka is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful tourist destinations in India. A trip to Kodachadri could be an unforgettable experience for nature-enthusiasts, trekkers, photographers and adventurous drivers. Kodachadri is situated 1343 meters above sea level and around 30 Kms away from the temple town Kollur.  Surrounded by lush green hills, it is home to a wide variety of wildlife and tropical vegetation.  The valley has been declared as a natural heritage site by the state government . The name Kodachadri (Kodachadri in Kannada,  Kutajadri in Sanskrit and Malayalam കുടജാദ്രി) is derived from Sanskrit words ‘Kutaja’ and  ‘Adri’ . Kutaja is a kind of Mountain Jasmine flower (കുടകപ്പാല, Kutakappaala or  Giri-Mallika) and Adri means hill. Kutaja plant has Ayurvedic medicinal properties too. The panoramic view from the top of Kodachadri peak is mesmerizing . The mountain top is accessible by an adventurous trekking trail of around 9 to 12 km through dense forest. This trek is meant for physically fit people and requires special permission from the forest department. It could also be reached by an off-road jeep route of around  30 Km from Kollur town.  The last […]
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May 19
by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage 15 comments tags: architecture, belur, Chennakesava, Chennakeshava, Dankanacharya, darpana sundari, dynasty, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, halebeedu, halebid, halebidu, hassan, hindu, hoy, hoysala, hoysaleshvara, hoysaleshwara, hoysalesvara, india, Jakanacharya, karnataka, kedareshwara, madanika, photography, sala, salabhanjika, salabhanjike, Shantala Devi, temple, tourism

POETRY IN STONE : MADANIKAS OF BELUR

Name of the Hoysala empire comes from Kannada folklore that tells the story of a young man called Sala who fights and kills a lion (or tiger) to save his Master  Sudatta. “Hoy, Sala” in Kannada language means “Strike Sala” which became the name of the dynasty he founded. The pictorial representation of this incident became the emblem of Hoysala empire too.  A statue of Sala fighting  the lion welcomes you at the entrance of Chennakesava temple at Belur. The temple was built during the rule of Vishnuvardhana of the Hoysala dynasty in 12th Century AD. According to the legend,  Chief Architects of Chennakeshava Temple were ‘Amarashilpi Jakanacharya’ and his son ‘Dankanacharya’. Please go through my detailed article on the history of  Belur & Halebid by clicking here. Chennakesava temple is well-known for extremely fine carvings, sculptures and motifs on its outer walls. The most famous and exquisite ones among these are the 42 well-carved bracket figures known as Madanikas (Chaste Maidens or Salabhanjikas). 38 of these are placed outside the temple while 4 of them could be found inside. Vishnuvardhana’s Queen Shantala Devi was considered to be the epitome of perfect feminine beauty and the Madanika sculptures were crafted by portraying the queen […]
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May 18
by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage 4 comments tags: architecture, arsikere, belavadi, belur, Chandramouleshwara, gop.org, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, halebeedu, halebidu, hindu, hoysala, india, Ishvara, karnataka, Shivalaya, shrine, sivalaya, temple, tour, tourism, veeranarayana

A SNEAK PEAK INTO HOYSALA HISTORY : BELAVADI & ARSIKERE

“Hoy, Sala !” in Kannada language means “Strike Sala !”, a dialogue that comes from Kannada folklore. As per the story, a young boy called Sala fought with a lion (or tiger) and saved his Jain Guru named Sudatta. The young warrior became the founder of an empire called ‘Hoysala’ and a depiction of this incident was adopted as the emblem of Hoysala dynasty. Hoysala Empire ruled the Deccan Plateau region of Southern India between the 10th and 14th centuries. They developed their own style of architecture and built a number of impeccable masterpieces around the kingdom, thus leaving their cultural imprint in and around the region. Several of these architectural wonders still exist in Karnataka, the most prominent ones are listed below in chronological order : Click the name of a temple to go through a photo tour. TEMPLE PLACE YEAR KING Chennakesava Belur 1117 Vishnuvardhana Hoysaleswara Halebidu 1120 Vishnuvardhana Kedareshwara Halebidu 1200 Veera Ballala II Veeranarayana Belavadi 1200 Veera Ballala II Ishvara (Shivalaya) Arsikere 1220 Veera Ballala II Kesava Somanathapura 1268 Narasimha III    VEERA NARAYANA TEMPLE, BELAVADI  Belavadi is a little village located 10 km north-west of Halebid (Halebeedu), the ancient capital of Hoysala kingdom. Belavadi is also known […]
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Apr 23
by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage 12 comments tags: aihole, Badami, bangalkot, Bhaje, cave, caves, chalukya, fort, Ganapatim, gop.org, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, hindu, india, jain, karnataka, mahakoota, mahakuta, Malegitti, Nataraja, pattadakal, pattadakallu, RAVALPHADI, RAVANA PHADI, RAVANAPHADI, Shivalaya, shrine, Temples, tour, tourism, vatapi

BADAMI : MAGNIFICENT CAVES OF ANCIENT INDIA

BADAMI (ಬದಾಮಿ or Vatapi as it was known originally) is an ancient temple town located in the Bangalkot district of Nothern Karnataka in India. The place ‘Badiamaioi’ mentioned by Greek Geographer Ptolemy (150 AD) has been identified as Badami. Badami was the capital of Chalukya dynasty who ruled several parts of Karnataka between 540 to 757 AD. The town of Badami lies 460 Kms from Bangalore, situated  at the mouth of a ravine protected by huge red sandstone ridges on either sides with a beautiful lake (Agastya lake) in the middle. Legend has it that Badami was named after an asura called Vatapi who got killed by sage Agastya.  Chalukya rulers had fortified the hills surrounding the town and built several temples in and around the area. The temples and ruins at Badami, Pattadakkal, Aihole and Mahakuta are good examples of Chalukya architecture. The most famous among this group of temples are the rock-cut cave temples built between 6th and 8th centuries AD. There is a famous Carnatic recital “Vatapi Ganapatim Bhaje” praising lord Ganesha at Vatapi, composed by Muthuswami Dikshitar. The Chalukyas were defeated by Pallavas in 7th century and the idol of Vatapi Ganapati was transferred to TamilNadu which […]
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Feb 22
by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage 19 comments tags: architecture, belur, Chennakesava, Chennakeshava, dynasty, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, halebeedu, halebid, halebidu, hassan, hindu, hoysala, hoysaleshvara, hoysaleshwara, hoysalesvara, india, Kappe Chennigaraya, karnataka, kedareshwara, madanika, photography, salabhanjika, salabhanjike, temple, tourism

FACE TO FACE WITH HISTORY :: BELUR & HALEBID

Belur (ಬೇಲೂರು) was the early capital of Hoysala Empire. Halebidu  is located 16 km away from Belur, both belong to the Hassan district and among the major tourist destinations in Karnataka. Belur is situated by the banks of river Yagachi, a tributary of river Kaveri . It is around 222 Km from Bangalore. The main attraction in Belur is the Chennakesava temple, which is famous for its exquisite carvings and Hoysala workmanship.  ‘Chenna’ Kesava literally means ‘Handsome Vishnu’ who is the main deity of this temple, being worshipped in the centre of the temple complex, surrounded by Kappe Chennigraya temple and a few other shrines.  The temple was built by King Vishnuvardhana in 1117 CE, to commemorate his victory over the Cholas at Talakkad . (read about Talakkad here). Legend has it that the construction of this temple took 103 years. This style of detailed and intricate carving is typical to the Hoysala temples of Karnataka and it portrays scenes from Hindu mythology as well as the contemporary culture, art forms and weaponry.  The material used for carving is known as Soapstone (Green schist) which gives them the incredible finish . The soft version of soapstone could be shaped even using our […]
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Jan 22
by GOPAN NAIR in Indian architecture & Heritage 4 comments tags: architecture, bangalore, curse, dunes, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, hoysala, karnataka, kaveri, Kirtinarayana, mysore, mysterious, photography, river, road, route, sand, talakad, talakkad, talakkadu

GREAT INDIAN ARCHITECTURE SERIES :: MYSTERIOUS TALAKAD

They say ‘fact is stranger than fiction !!’ Talakad is a historic site near Mysore in India. Talakad once had over 30 temples that today are buried under sand. Massive sand dunes cover a vast spread area where the natives talk about several myths & legends about this unnatural phenomenon. Excavation is still going on and several Temples have been recovered from sand dunes . The photos here are taken by me from the same location within a gap of 24 years. In the first picture, we were standing on top of the partly visible Mahadwara (“grand entrance”) of Kirtinarayana temple which had been fully recovered and restored now (shown in the picture below). Talakkad was developed by the Ganga Dynasty in the first millennium CE, and then by the Tamil Cholas from the 11th through the 12th centuries. Talakkad came under the rule of Hoysalas in the 12th century. It was then taken over by the Vijayanagar rulers and the Maharajas of Mysore. Talakkad got buried under sand over 400 years back and there are several theories behind this mystery. Scientific study suggests that it could an eco-disaster triggered by a series of earthquakes. People also believe that the area got […]
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Jan 17
by GOPAN NAIR in Life in this India 2 comments tags: basava, bull, decorated, folk, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, gops.org, gypsies, gypsy, handsome, india, karnataka, kole, photo, photography, tradition

HUNGER PARTNERS ( KOLE BASAVA )

“THE HANDSOME BULL ( KOLE BASAVA )” A tradition or folk art of Southern India called “Kole Basava”. The elaborately decorated bulls accompanied by their masters are trained to entertain people . The pictures are from the Indian state of Karnataka. These people  are gypsies or nomads who wander around the streets, blessing people in exchange for money, clothes or food. The masters are usually talented musicians who play some musical instruments or demonstrate some trick. He may even ask questions to the bull and the bull will nod his head to answer Yes or No . The heavy bulls also perform some stunts like standing on the stomach of a person without injuring him. The bull being associated with Hindu God Shiva, has been considered holy in India. Women of the villages offer ragi, paddy, chillies, salt and tamrind. They even worship the bulls with turmeric, vermillion, agarbathi sticks. The kole basavas are taken good care by their masters because they fill their feeding bowls. During performance, the bulls are gaily dressed, colourful ribbons are tied to the horns and are capped at the tips. Anklets are tied to its legs and a bell around its neck. One can […]
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