VITTALA TEMPLE, HAMPI

Rivers are like the lifeblood of a nation, shaping its history and development. The ancient Vijayanagara empire, for example, thrived along the banks of rivers, with its roots intertwined with folklore and mythology when explored further.

The river Pampa served as the vital artery of a magnificent civilization in the southern state of Karnataka, India. Evidence of ancient settlements can be discovered on the Northern bank of the river (Anegundi), linking back to the legendary tales of Ramayana and the monkey kingdom of Kishkindha. Explore more about Anegundi here >>

TUNGABHADRA (PAMPA) RIVER FLOWING BETWEEN HAMPI AND ANEGUNDI

The southern shores of the river were the backdrop for a sequence of conflicts and occurrences that trace back to the era of Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BC. The term “Hampe” in Kannada originated from “Pampa” and was later anglicized to “Hampi” under British influence.

The river formerly known as Pampa is now called Tungabhadra, and it continues to flow quietly amidst the remnants of the Vijayanagara empire. This piques the interest of every traveler. What could have caused the downfall of such a great empire?

The Tunga and Bhadra rivers have their source in the Western Ghats, flow across the plains of Karnataka, and converge 150 kilometers to the east before embarking on a further 530-kilometer journey to meet the Krishna River in Andhra Pradesh. A dam located on the Tungabhadra river near Hampi in Hospet not only generates electricity but also provides irrigation to the nearby villages.

Hampi, located near the industrial city of Hospet in Karnataka’s Bellary district, is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can find various accommodation options in Hospet, Kamalapur, or Hampi. There are also some good restaurants near the Virupaksha temple.

VIRUPAKSHA TEMPLE, HAMPI. SEEN FROM THE TOP OF MATANGA HILL

THE HISTORY OF HAMPI

The Vijayanagara Kingdom was constantly at risk from Mughal invaders from the North, yet its advantageous position between the powerful river and the hills provided strategic benefits.

In the early stages, Hampi was under the control of the Kampli rulers until the Mughal ruler Muhammed bin Tughluq conquered it in 1327 AD. Two courageous local chieftains, Hakka (Harihara) & Bukka rebelled against the Mughals and recaptured the Kingdom, establishing their local capital on the southern banks of Pampa river. They named the new empire Vijayanagara or ‘the city of victory’ and became the founders of this great Kingdom at Hampi. There is also a version that suggests the city was named Vidyanagara in honor of their guru Vidyaranya. Over the next 200 plus years (1336 AD – 1565 AD), it changed hands from Kakatiyas, Hoysalas, Yadavas, and Pandyas until it fell under the rule of Vijayanagara. Four dynasties governed Vijayanagara, namely the Sangama Dynasty (1336-1490), Saluva Dynasty (1490-1509), Tuluva Dynasty (1503-1570), and Aravidu Dynasty (1565-1646). King Krishna Deva Raya of Tuluva Dynasty reigned from 1509 to 1530, considered the Golden Period of Vijayanagara empire. He engaged in over a dozen wars and emerged victorious in each one.

BEAUTIFUL VIEW OF HAMPI AND ITS GREEN SURROUNDINGS. AS SEEN FROM THE TOP OF MATHANGA HILL

Domingos Paes, a Portuguese explorer and merchant, had journeyed to the Vijayanagara Empire around 1520, during the rule of Krishnadevaraya. He ascended the highest hill, likely Mathanga hill, in the area to behold the entire Kingdom and drew parallels with Rome in his travel writings. His elaborate accounts provide a glimpse into the fortified city, flourishing art scene, cultural festivities, grand temples, bustling markets, and the royal precincts.

Krishnadevaraya was not only an exemplary monarch, but also a distinguished intellectual and poet. His literary works continue to be revered in modern-day literature. He was the visionary behind many of the enduring architectural marvels that still stand today. The Vijayanagara rulers even dispatched envoys to nations like China to facilitate trade. The splendor and magnificence of Vijaynagar were renowned throughout the Asian subcontinent, parts of Europe, and the Middle East. During his reign, bustling marketplaces thrived where precious gems like pearls, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds were extravagantly traded on the streets. These once vibrant bazaar streets now lie abandoned in Hampi, with only a handful of vendors selling fruits, while cows and monkeys roam about in search of a morsel.

COURTESAN’S STREET UNDER THE FOOTHILLS OF MATHANGA, WHERE THEY USED TO SELL JEWELS, PEARLS & ORNAMENTS

WHO PLACED THAT ROCK THERE ? MYSTERY OF BOULDERS AT HAMPI

The connection between Hampi and Ramayana is intriguing, as many places in and around Hampi still bear the names mentioned in the epic. The landscape of Hampi is characterized by an unusual sight of endless boulders, stacked in heaps across hills and valleys. This phenomenon has piqued the interest of onlookers, with geologists attributing it to millions of years of exposure to natural elements like sun, wind, and rain. The continuous heating and cooling may have caused the rocks to crumble, while erosion over time could have removed the sand particles between them. The mystery of these perfectly balanced rocks continues to fascinate observers.

WHO PLAYED THAT BALANCING GAME ?

Mythology offers a different interpretation of this phenomenon. According to legend, the region encompassing Hampi and Anegundi was once part of the Monkey Kingdom (Kishkindha) as described in the Hindu epic Ramayana. Rishimukh hill, Anjaneya hill, Mathanga hill, and others were believed to be the abodes of monkey kings Vali (Bali), Sugreeva, Hanuman, and their companions. The rock formations are thought to be the result of the monkey warriors testing their might. Local residents are eager to guide you to the spot where Hanuman encountered Rama and Lakshmana in their quest for Sita, as well as the location where Vali and Sugriva engaged in their decisive battle. The influence of Ramayana is apparent in the numerous motifs and temples scattered throughout the vicinity.

During Rama Raya’s reign, the Vijayanagara empire engaged in frequent conflicts with Muslim rulers. The pivotal battle of Talikota in 1565 saw Rama Raya’s forces clash with an alliance of four Deccan Sultans. Following a brutal confrontation, Rama Raya was executed, the Muslim army pillaged the city, desecrated Hindu temples, destroyed idols, and massacred civilians. Historical records indicate that the looting persisted for more than half a year in order to deplete the empire’s riches. The once magnificent empire was left devastated and never regained its former glory.

Presently, we shall embark on a leisurely walk around Hampi. The vast expanse covers 26 square kilometers, making it impossible to explore in just a day or two. Make sure to equip yourself for a lengthy hike, bringing an ample supply of water and snacks. Alternatively, you may opt to rent a moped or bicycle to navigate through the ancient ruins. Additionally, exercise caution around the playful monkeys, known for their adeptness in snatching food and personal items.

I HAD AN ENCOUNTER WITH THIS DEADLY COBRA DURING THE TREK. WATCH YOUR STEP. TAKE CARE

Hampi is a photographer’s paradise, offering a plethora of subjects ranging from ruins and temples to landscapes and street scenes. The images showcased here were taken on various occasions and in different weather conditions. Achieving that ideal shot requires a great deal of commitment, effort, and patience.

I frequently encounter many tourists caught up in selfie fever, who love taking their own photos in front of a partially broken statue or while hanging onto the temple ruins.

I understand and appreciate people’s personal interests, but it’s important to remember that Hampi is also a place of pilgrimage. Please be mindful of the art and religious feelings of the locals.

A TALE OF TAILS FROM THE MONKEY KINGDOM

MONKEY STYLE KUNGFU ! MIND THOSE NAUGHTY MONKEYS.

Watching the sunrise from the peak of Mathanga hill is a must-do ritual in Hampi, offering an unforgettable experience. I woke up early and made my way to Hampi Bazaar street by 5:30 AM. As I strolled past the Nandi bull statue and headed towards Achyutharaya temple, the sky painted a beautiful array of colors while the moon shone brightly above.

ON THE WAY TO MATHANGA HILLS BEFORE SUN RISE

THE TREACHEROUS TRAIL LEADING TO MATHANGA PEAK

I made it to the base of Mathanga in just 15-20 minutes and found the narrow path to the summit using my flashlight. The trail was quite dangerous, with broken steps and sharp rocks that made walking painful. Be careful where you step!

I quickly discovered that the sandals I had on didn’t provide enough traction, so I should have packed hiking shoes instead. Safety standards are pretty much non-existent, so you’re basically on your own.

I made it to the summit in just 20 minutes, and as I looked out, the sun was beginning to rise over the rugged horizon.

It was truly an amazing sight, and I began taking pictures of the scenery in every direction. Mathanga is the highest point on the South side of the Tungabhadra river. From there, you can see the Achyutharaya temple, Courtesan’s street, Virupaksha temple, and the river. The views are absolutely stunning.

SPECTACULAR VIEW OF SUN RISE FROM MATHANGA PEAK WITH ACHYUTHARAYA TEMPLE AT THE BOTTOM

WATCHING THE SUNRISE FROM MATHANGA HILL

AERIAL VIEW OF TUNGABHADRA RIVER & HAMPI VILLAGE FROM MATHANGA HILL

HAMPI REALLY ROCKS! YOU WILL GET CARRIED AWAY…

AERIAL VIEW OF ACHYUTHARAYA TEMPLE & COURTESAN’S STREET

As I was returning from Mathanga Hills, I decided to visit Achyutharaya temple and the Courtesan’s street. Unfortunately, the temple was in a state of complete ruin. I learned that the large towers (gopura) in front of the temple were destroyed by Mughal invaders in search of precious stones.

RUINS OF ACHYUTHARAYA TEMPLE WITH MATHANGA HILL IN THE BACKDROP

GOPURA OF ACHYUTHARAYA TEMPLE DESTROYED BY INVADERS

ENTRY GATE OF ACHYUTHARAYA TEMPLE, FACING THE COURTESAN’S STREET

MAGNIFICENT PUSHKARNI POND IN FRONT OF ACHYUTHARAYA TEMPLE

LAKHSMI NARASIMHA IDOL AT HAMPI

The pathway stretching from Achyutharaya temple to Vittala temple is famously called the courtesan’s street. It is approximately 50 meters wide and half a kilometer in length. On either side of the street, you will find piles of intricately carved pillars that once belonged to grand pavilions. In the empire’s golden era, these pavilions were bustling marketplaces where precious gems like pearls, rubies, emeralds, diamonds, and ivory were traded.

Across the street, you can find the ancient pond known as Pushkarni. I spent a few minutes there, reflecting on its rich history and taking in the breathtaking scenery. It’s amazing to think that this ancient pond never dries up, even during the hottest part of summer. My other post about Anegundi (click here) explains how the waterways were strategically constructed to provide water for this powerful kingdom. It’s fascinating to learn that they had the foresight to implement a rainwater harvesting system to gather and channel water from the surrounding highlands to nourish the land below.

Next on my list was the Lakshmi Narasimha temple. The Narasimha statue inside is known to be one of the biggest and suffered the most damage during the Mughal invasion.

The statue created by Krishnadeva Raya in 1528 AD featured Goddess Lakshmi seated on the lap of Narasimha avatar. Unfortunately, it was destroyed by invaders. The remaining monolithic statue stands at a height of approximately 6.7m, with a seven hooded naga positioned above its head.

THE ELDERLY PRIEST IN FRONT OF THE MASSIVE BADAVI LINGA

Next to the Lakshmi Narasimha temple, you can find a huge monolithic Shiva Linga (Badavi linga) partially submerged in running water. According to legend, this linga was constructed by a poor woman (badava), which is how it got its name. It is said that the linga possessed such great power that it needed to be kept cool by the water. Even today, it is revered and worshipped in the inner chamber filled with 2-3 feet of water.

The Sasvekalu and Kadalekalu Ganesha statues are well-known in Hampi and just a short walk away from Badavi Linga. After exploring these impressive monolithic idols, I headed towards Virupaksha temple.

The Virupaksha temple is the primary and sole operational temple in Hampi. It has remained accessible since the 14th century and was spared from damage by Islamic invaders. Interestingly, the flag of the Tuluva dynasty featured a pig image, which was prohibited to the Mughals. Visitors were required to pay an entry fee for themselves and their cameras. Remember to bring bananas for the temple elephant and watch out for monkeys trying to grab them along the path.

VIRUPAKSHA TEMPLE IN THE NIGHT

The bustling Virupaksha Bazaar street begins right in front of the temple and stretches all the way to the Monolithic bull statue close to Mathanga hill. It is approximately 12 meters wide and 730 meters long, lined with two-story stone buildings on both sides. This street stands as a reminder of the magnificent history of the Vijayanagara kingdom.

VIRUPAKSHA BAZAAR STREET AT HAMPI

ANOTHER VIEW OF VIRUPAKSHA TEMPLE

ANOTHER VIEW OF VIRUPAKSHA TEMPLE

I’m becoming more and more drawn to every part of this incredible city as I explore further. The more I immerse myself in life in Hampi, the more captivated I become by its mystery rather than its history. One of the stops on my journey was the underground Shiva Temple. It’s completely deserted, located below ground level and partially submerged in water. I spent a few minutes there, took some photos, and then continued on my way.

UNDERGROUND SHIVA TEMPLE SUBMERGED IN WATER

I stumbled upon a huge platform shaped like a pyramid known as Mahanavami-dibba. This impressive 12m tall platform featured intricately decorated side walls showcasing festivals, elephants, horse-training, and more. It was primarily used for conducting religious ceremonies.

MAHANAVAMI DIBBA OR PLATFORM TO PERFORM RELIGIOUS RITUALS

INTRICATE CARVINGS ON THE SIDE WALLS OF MAHANAVAMI DIBBA

ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS ELEPHANT STATUE, DAMAGED BY VANDALS FROM MUGHAL PERIOD

The ancient citadel’s adjacent stepped tank is a remarkable feat of architecture, showcasing the impressive engineering abilities of the people from that era. The pond was supplied with water through a network of ancient aqueducts, ensuring a constant water supply.

STEPPED TANK AT HAMPI

The Queen’s bath is an expansive square structure with beautifully detailed interiors. Inside, there is a spacious bath measuring 15 square meters and 1.8 meters deep. Surrounding the bath are ornate corridors on each of the four sides. This grand building was constructed for the noble women of royal lineage.

QUEENS BATH AT HAMPI

In the afternoon, I made the choice to investigate the enigmatic rock formations in Hampi. It was revealed to me that the craftsmen of old employed a unique method to accurately split the rocks. Initially, a sequence of holes (a few inches in depth) is created in a straight line at the desired cutting point. Subsequently, bamboo sticks are inserted into these holes and water is poured over them. As the bamboo absorbs the water, it swells and fractures the stone. The majority of the stone fragments will exhibit these distinctive marks along the edges.

I was also struck by the sight of a mature banyan tree perched atop a large rock. It seemed as though the tree’s robust roots were suffocating the rock, leaving it gasping for air.

BIG BANYAN TREE ON TOP OF A ROCK

Hampi is a sprawling area that simply can’t be explored in just a day or two. Many key tourist attractions can be reached by car, with a village road from Kamalapur that leads to the Vittala Temple. However, I found it more exciting to take the shortcut on foot.

I went to Vittala Temple in the evening. It took over thirty minutes to reach the temple through the rough, narrow path next to the Tungabhadra river. Along the way, I saw the Kings Balance, a tradition still practiced in Hindu temples. This particular one was used to weigh the Kings with Gold or other valuable items to be given as offerings to the less fortunate.

KING’S BALANCE. A RITUAL TO WEIGH THE KINGS AGAINST PRECIOUS MATERIALS

I found it quite entertaining to see a banyan tree adorned with colorful pieces of cloth draped all over it. Must be some kind of religious tradition, I suppose.

BANYAN TREE DECORATED WITH SOME PECULIAR RITUAL

The Vittala Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, stands out as one of the most stunning and impressive temples in Hampi. Its architectural brilliance is evident in the vast courtyard, shrines, pavilions, and halls that make up the temple complex. One of the main attractions of this temple is the exquisitely decorated halls adorned with intricately carved pillars, as well as a breathtaking stone chariot.

VITTALA TEMPLE, HAMPI

The stone chariot is a must-see attraction and has become the symbol of tourism in Hampi. Originally, the chariot featured horses, but they were destroyed during invasions and now elephant statues stand in their place. The chariot is equipped with axis shafts and the wheels can actually rotate. A stone ladder in front of the chariot was likely used by priests to enter its sanctum for worship. The chariot was once painted with natural dyes, but they have since faded away. The body of the chariot is adorned with exquisite carvings, making it a true architectural marvel.

A CLOSE LOOK AT THE EXQUISITELY CARVED CHARIOT WHEELS AT VITTALA TEMPLE, HAMPI

The temple complex houses beautifully carved mandaps with intricate pillars depicting scenes from epics like Ramayana. The music pillars, a unique feature of Indian temples, are particularly stunning. These precisely cut stone pillars produce musical notes when struck. In the courtyard, a solitary old tree exudes a hidden beauty. The remains of an old market in front of the temple are still visible, once a bustling center for horse-trading and other business activities. The carvings on the wall reveal the history of Persian and Chinese traders with horses.

150 YEARS OLD, THE TREE OF LIFE INSIDE VITTALA TEMPLE CAMPUS

I saw a pavilion partially submerged in the river on my way back from Vittala temple. It was built at the spot where the renowned composer and Carnatic singer Purandara Dasa used to practice. Purandara Dasa, also known as the father of Carnatic music, traveled throughout the Vijayanagara empire, bringing joy to the people, and he spent his last years in Hampi.

PURANDARA DASA MANDAP AT HAMPI

KOTILINGA (THOUSAND LINGAS) IN THE MIDDLE OF THE RIVER

I stood outside the Krishna Temple, constructed by Krishnadevaraya. The inside of the temple was stunning, adorned with detailed carvings. The dwarapalika motif at the entrance was a common feature in Vijayanagara and Hoysala temples.

I was completely captivated by the beauty of that artwork when suddenly, a loud voice from the gatekeeper lady near the temple door brought me back to reality. Surprisingly, she didn’t mind at all and was actually delighted to have her photo taken.

I then headed to the Hazararama Temple, which was situated a short distance away from the Krishna Temple, close to the Royal enclosures and baths.

Hazararama Temple is well-known for its intricate carvings depicting stories from Hindu scriptures like Ramayana and Bhagavata.

The carvings on the side walls were not only highly artistic but also incredibly intricate to be done by hand. The bangle-like designs were clearly crafted by extremely skilled individuals, and I couldn’t help but wonder how they managed to do it without harming even the tiniest detail. Check out some photos from Hazararama Temple below.

A DWARAPALIKA (GATEKEEPER) APPEARED IN FLESH & BLOOD IN FRONT OF KRISHNA TEMPLE

STORY-TELLING CARVINGS ON HAZARARAMA TEMPLE WALLS, HAMPI

I stumbled upon the massive stone doors left abandoned in front of the royal courtyard. It’s a mystery where they were dismantled from. The evening by the riverside was truly calming. I observed people patiently waiting for their turn to cross the river in coracles. In Hampi, there are only a few places where ferry services operate all day long. Some locals who commute daily even bring their motorbikes on the ferry. While a coracle ride is a more affordable option, it can be a bit risky. Riding a coracle might lead you to some hidden temples, some of which were destroyed and deserted due to the river’s rage. Kotilinga (thousand Shiva lingas) is a fascinating spot that used to be submerged underwater.

CORACLES WAIT FOR TOURISTS ON THE BANKS OF TUNGABHADRA

Anegundi used to be the capital of the Vijayanagara Empire until it was moved to Hampi. There used to be a stone bridge over the Tungabhadra river that connected the old and new capitals. Even though the bridge is no longer there, you can still see the remains of it. The government attempted to build a new hanging bridge in the same area, but it was destroyed in 2009 by natural disasters, and the workers tragically drowned. The project was abandoned because people thought it was a bad sign. It seems like the Gods didn’t want a bridge in that location. UNESCO also warned that a bridge there could harm the ruins. A new bridge called Bukkasagar bridge was built downstream in 2017 and is now fully operational.

RUINS OF ANCIENT STONE BRIDGE THAT CONNECTED HAMPI AND ANEGUNDI

The highlight of a trip to Hampi is definitely witnessing the sunrise or sunset from Hemakuta hills. The view is absolutely stunning and something you wouldn’t want to miss. As you make your way up the hill near Virupaksha temple, you’ll see many people already there before the sun sets. Numerous ancient temples in ruins are scattered across the hilltop. Legend has it that when Lord Shiva meditated on this hill, it rained gold. ‘Hema’ means gold in Sanskrit. The original site of Virupaksha temple, known as ‘moola sthan’, can be found here along with a small temple and a pond in front of it. Another small shrine dedicated to Anjaneya (Hanuman) with a solitary tree in front is a favorite spot for photographers.

SUNSET AT HEMAKUTA HILLS. ANJANEYA TEMPLE

Malyavanta Raghunathaswamy temple can be found just 3 kilometers away from Kamalapur. This sacred temple is devoted to Lord Sri Ram and is said to have been visited by Rama and Lakshmana during their search for Sita. The view of the valley from the hill behind the temple is truly breathtaking.

WHEN SUN SETS BEHIND MALYAVANTA RAGHUNATHA TEMPLE, HAMPI

Hampi is definitely a destination you shouldn’t miss in your lifetime. Its captivating charm has a way of drawing you in. Curious about what lies across the river? Find out in my upcoming blog post here >>

BEYOND THE RIVER… FAR BEHIND HISTORY…  LET’S BEGIN A NEW JOURNEY…

Now, Let’s watch and listen to the sound of Tungabhadra river :

How to Reach Hampi :

• Bangalore-Hiriyur-Challakere-Rampura-Hampi – 364Km
• Bangalore -Tumkur -Hiriyur – Chitradurga – Hospet – Hampi – 341 Km
• Nearest Town: Hospet (13 km), Bellary (84 km)
• Nearest Railway Station: Hospet (13 km)
• Best Time to Visit: October to February