Belur (ಬೇಲೂರು in the Kannada language) which served as the former capital of the Hoysala Empire and Halebidu, situated 16 kilometers from Belur, both part of the Hassan district are prominent tourist spots in Karnataka. Belur is positioned along the banks of the Yagachi River, a tributary of the Kaveri River. The distance between Belur and Bangalore is approximately 222 kilometers.

Chennakesava temple, Belur, Karnataka

Belur’s primary highlight is the Chennakesava temple, renowned for its intricate carvings and Hoysala craftsmanship. The name ‘Chenna’ Kesava translates to ‘Handsome Vishnu’, the principal deity of the temple, enshrined at the heart of the temple complex, flanked by the Kappe Chennigraya temple and several other shrines. Constructed by King Vishnuvardhana in 1117 CE to commemorate his triumph over the Cholas at Talakkad (read it here), the temple’s construction is said to have spanned 103 years according to legend.

Garuda statue in front of Chennakesava Temple

The intricate and detailed carving style is commonly found in the Hoysala temples of Karnataka, depicting scenes from Hindu mythology, contemporary culture, art forms, and weaponry. Soapstone ((steatite or talc-schist)) is the material of choice for carving, providing a remarkable finish. The softness of soapstone allows for shaping even with finger nails, and instead of the traditional hammer and chiselling process, many pillars and sculptures were created using lathe turning or scraping motion of the tools.

The Chennakesava Temple used to feature impressive super structures (gopurams) similar to those found at Somanathpura (read it here), but unfortunately, they were destroyed by natural elements. The temple itself is built on a star-shaped platform (jagati) with evenly placed corners, and boasts a magnificent entrance adorned with Dwarapalakas (doorkeepers) on both sides. Additionally, there are 42 exquisite sculptures of maidens (madanikas) in different poses encircling the temple.

Legend has it that the Chief Architects of Chennakeshava Temple were ‘Amarashilpi Jakanacharya’ and his son ‘Dankanacharya’. The tale unfolds as follows:

Jakanacharya, a skilled sculptor, resided in the village of Kridapura (later known as Kaidala) near Tumkur in Karnataka. Despite leaving his pregnant wife behind, his unwavering dedication to art led him to travel throughout the kingdom in pursuit of a successful career. His talent eventually garnered him widespread recognition, resulting in his employment by King Vishnuvardhana to oversee the construction of the grand ChennaKeshava temple in Belur.

Rear View of Chennakesava Temple, Belur

Inside the Sanctum Sanctorum of Chennakesava Temple, Belur

In the meantime, Dankanacharya, the son of Jakanacharya who had inherited his father’s skills, embarked on a journey to find his missing father and ended up finding work at the same temple construction site. As the master craftsman Jakanacharya was preparing to install the newly sculpted idol of the main deity, the 18-year-old Dankanacharya noticed a flaw in the statue. Despite his wounded pride, the overly confident boss Jakanacharya issued a challenge, stating that he would cut off his right hand if proven wrong. Dankanacharya covered the statue with sandalwood paste and patiently waited for it to dry. Upon noticing a small damp area near the figure’s navel, he chiseled away the stone, revealing a small cavity. To everyone’s amazement, a bit of sand, water, and a frog emerged from the stone. Jakanacharya soon recognized that the young boy was indeed his son and appointed him as his assistant, albeit after fulfilling the promise he had made by severing his hand.

The idol and the shrine gained renown as ‘Kappe Chennigaraya’ (Kappe translates to Frog in the Kannada language). Legend has it that the pair went back to their village and erected another Chennakeshava Temple, with Jakanacharya’s hand being miraculously healed as a token of his dedication. Subsequently, the area came to be called Kaidala (Kai signifies hand in Kannada).

The Government of Karnataka established the ‘Jakanachari Awards’ to honor skilled sculptors and craftsmen in the state as a tribute to the renowned artist.

Within the temple, despite the complete darkness, the lathe-turned pillars gleam like marble. The exquisitely detailed carvings in front of the sanctum sanctorum exhibit unparalleled creativity and precision. A temple attendant graciously illuminated the area with floodlights to assist me in capturing photographs. However, please be aware that there is a charge for camera usage, and refrain from photographing the primary deity.

The Chennakesava temple is renowned for its exceptionally detailed carvings, sculptures, and motifs adorning the exterior walls. Among these, the most notable and exquisite are the 42 intricately carved bracket figures called Madanikas, also known as Chaste Maidens or Salabhanjikas. While 38 of these figures are positioned outside the temple, the remaining 4 can be found inside.

Read all about Madanikas & other masterpieces in my page here > POETRY IN STONE : MADANIKAS OF BELUR

Highly ornamental ceiling of Chennakesava Temple, Belur

Incredibly fine carvings inside the Sanctum Sanctorum of Chennakesava Temple, Belur

The temple courtyard houses a 42 feet tall Gravity Pillar (Mahasthambha) that is impressively balanced by its own center of gravity, serving as a testament to the engineering prowess of the era. Despite enduring invasions and vandalism over the years, it stands as a remarkable example of Indian architecture.

42 feet tall Gravity Pillar (Mahasthambha) perfectly balanced even after 900 years

Exquisite carvings on the outer walls of Chennakesava Temple, Belur

Exquisite carvings on the outer walls of Chennakesava Temple, Belur

A COLLECTION OF SEVERAL MADANIKA STATUES AT CHENNAKESAVA TEMPLE

A sneak peak into history

A temple priest awaiting devotees.

Kappe Chennigaraya shrine inside the Belur Temple complex

Full view of Chennakesava temple, Belur, Karnataka

A walk around the temple complex, Belur, Karnataka

Reminiscence of the past . Ruins of the temple, Belur, Karnataka

A walk through the history . Around the temple complex, Belur, Karnataka

Halebid (ಹಳೆಬೀಡು), located 16km from Belur, served as the capital of the Hoysala empire during the 12th century. The name ‘Halebid’ translates to ‘the old city’ or ‘ruined city’. The Hoysalas governed this city for about 150 years until it was conquered by Islamic invaders in the 14th century, leading to its decline and neglect. Within Halebid are two Shiva shrines, namely the Hoysaleswara and Kedareswara temples, both of which are incomplete Hoysala constructions that were damaged due to repeated attacks by intruders.

Full view of Halebid Temple Complex . Hoysaleshwara Temple & Kedareshwara Temple

Closer view of Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu

The Hoysaleswara temple surpasses the Chennakesava temple in Belur in size, boasting two shrines and twice the number of symmetrical corners. The soapstone carvings are equally detailed, making it one of the finest examples of Indian temple architecture.

Intricate carvings on the outer walls of Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu

Face to face with history. Life-like statue of Dwarapalaka at Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu

Intricate carvings on the outer walls of Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu

Intricate carvings on the outer walls of Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu

The neglect and cultural vandalism that have befallen Belur & Halebid, like many other architectural wonders of India, are a tragic sight. It is disheartening to witness the handiwork of miscreants spoiling the culture and heritage of our country.

An example of Vandalism

How To Reach Belur

• By Road :- (Distance 238 Km) Bangalore – Nelamangala – Hassan – Belur – Halebid.