VARANASI, also recognized as BENARAS or KASHI, holds the prestigious title of being the oldest living city globally, with a well-documented history of over 3000 years. Mark Twain’s words resonate as he stated, “Varanasi is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and appears twice as old as all of them combined.” This ancient city has withstood the test of time, existing even during the childhood years of Siddhartha Gautama, who would later become known as Buddha.

WELCOME TO VARANASI

Varanasi is located in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, on the western bank of the sacred Ganga River. This ancient city, revered by Hindus, Buddhists, Jains, and Sikhs, serves as a religious hub. Despite facing destruction by Mughals and other invaders over the centuries, Varanasi continues to stand as a place where the past and present, eternity and continuity, philosophy and wisdom harmoniously coexist. For Hindus, Kashi holds the same level of sanctity as Mecca does for Muslims and Jerusalem does for Christians.

VARANASI GHATS BRIGHTLY LIT BY THE MORNING RAYS

It is widely believed that one must receive an invitation from a higher power in order to visit Varanasi. I believe this holds true in everyday life as well. Despite my tendency to procrastinate, the trip unexpectedly came to fruition when I least expected it.

Varanasi’s street life is undeniably one of its main draws, serving as a veritable paradise and learning environment for photographers. Throughout this collection, I have endeavored to encapsulate the spiritual essence and bustling street scenes of Varanasi while preserving their allure.

ILLUMINATED VARANASI GHATS AFTER DARK

FEEL THE ENERGY, FEEL THE FREEDOM, FEEL THE FRESHNESS

Varanasi is known for its narrow passages called ‘Galis’ and the riverfront steps known as ‘Ghats’. The Galis are full of twists and turns, making it easy to get lost. It’s important to keep an eye out for landmarks to find your way back. The Galis are the heart of Varanasi, offering plenty of photo opportunities. Cows are revered in India and freely roam the Galis, while mischievous monkeys can pose a threat to personal belongings. It’s important to note that the streets are dirty and unhygienic, so visitors should be prepared for this.

ENTER AT YOUR OWN RISK. WELCOME TO THE GALI AT VARANASI

There are numerous locations along the Galis that have staircases leading down to the banks of the Ganga river, which are referred to as Ghats. Ghats are where individuals bathe in the Ganga river, partake in religious ceremonies, go for boat rides, or cremate deceased individuals. Varanasi is home to 87 ghats, with the most prominent ones being Assi Ghat, Tulsi Ghat, Dashashwamedh Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, and Harishchandra Ghat. Among these, Dashashwamedh Ghat stands out as the most impressive, where thousands of pilgrims partake in religious ceremonies on a daily basis. The Kashi Vishwanath Temple is located near Dashashwamedh Ghat. It is highly recommended not to miss the Ganga Aarti (river worship) that takes place here every morning and evening. Observers often experience a sense of spiritual euphoria while witnessing this vibrant ceremony.

GANGA AARTI ( RIVER WORSHIP) AT DASHASHWAMEDH GHAT PERFORMED EVERY EVENING

GANGA AARTI ( RIVER WORSHIP) AT DASHASHWAMEDH GHAT

Be cautious of individuals attempting to extort money from you, such as sadhus, touts, and locals, while capturing street scenes in Varanasi. During a peaceful morning as I was photographing the sunrise, a sadhu suddenly approached me and began yelling. Typically, offering a small amount of money can help defuse the situation.

I encountered threats from some individuals at the Manikarnika Ghat while capturing images of the cremation ceremony. It is important to exercise caution when interacting with such hostile locals to avoid potential trouble.

However, rest assured that the majority of the local individuals I encountered displayed remarkable intelligence and talent. A great number of them were proficient in multiple languages and also offered valuable assistance.

A SADHU OR HOLY MAN WHO BLESSED ME NEAR THE GHATS

The river is bustling with activity from sunrise to sunset. Visitors have the option to rent a rowing boat for a one-hour journey from Dashashwamedh Ghat to Harishchandra Ghat and back. The early morning hours offer a captivating view of the vibrant ghats and the devoted pilgrims engaging in their daily rituals and baths. Numerous seagulls will accompany you during the boat ride, and if desired, you can feed them. Observing their reactions to the boatmen’s calls is quite fascinating. Additionally, you have the opportunity to purchase floating lamps (diya) during the ride and release them into the river as an offering. At 7:00 PM, you can witness the Ganga Aarti (worship) at Dashashwamedh Ghat from the boat. The cost of a one-hour boat ride ranges from 250 to 300 Rupees.

A SPIRITUAL AWAKENING. EXPERIENCE IT AT VARANASI

WHEN EMPTINESS FILLS LIFE. A SADHU WAITING FOR ALMS

IN SEARCH OF PEACE IN A FRANTIC WORLD

THE DAY BREAKS & ACTION BEGINS AT VARANASI

EVERY MORNING LOOKS DIFFERENT, THOUGH THE SAME SUN WHO POSES IN FRONT OF YOU

GANGA WORSHIP AT VARANASI IS A USUAL SCENE IN THE MORNING.

Water, one of the five elements of nature (Pancha Bhoota), is symbolized by a circle representing fullness. It is considered the fundamental component of life and has been revered by Hindus since ancient times. Despite being heavily polluted and contaminated, the day at the banks of the Ganga River typically starts with the worship of water.

WATER WORSHIP AT GANGA, EARLY IN THE MORNING

PRAYING AT THE HOLY WATERS OF GANGA RIVER. A USUAL SCENE IN THE MORNING .

TAKE A DEEP BREATH . ENJOY THE PEACE

DIYAS OR FLOATING LAMPS WAIT FOR THEIR CUSTOMERS.

DEVOTION AS SEEN AT VARANASI GHATS

TWILIGHT HOUR AT VARANASI

OUR COMPANIONS FOR THE BOAT RIDE

Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats are Hindu cremation sites where bodies are cremated continuously day and night. Visitors are permitted to observe the ritual quietly, but taking photographs is strictly forbidden.

The air is heavy with smoke, soot, and ash emanating from the funeral pyres, potentially causing discomfort for certain individuals. Stacks of firewood are scattered throughout these riverbanks, where family members of the deceased can be seen haggling for various kinds of timber. Wealthier individuals are able to purchase expensive varieties such as sandalwood. The amount of firewood needed is determined and sold by weight. In cases where the wood is insufficient to fully cremate the body, the partially burnt remains may be disposed of in the river.

The Ganga river is heavily contaminated due to the continuous discharge of sewage and industrial waste into its waters on a daily basis. The levels of Coliform bacteria in the river exceed the safety standards set by the World Health Organization by more than 2800 times. Despite this alarming situation, individuals in Varanasi continue to bathe in and drink water from the Ganga in the name of religious devotion and faith.

DEVOTION VS POLLUTION . HEAVILY CONTAMINATED WATER IN GANGA RIVER

LADIES PRAYING AT THE GHATS EARLY IN THE MORNING

LADIES WORSHIPING GANGA RIVER AT VARANASI

There are over 800 temples in and around Varanasi. The Kashi Viswanath temple is the most prominent among them all. Visitors are not allowed to bring cameras and other electronic gadgets inside the temple. We opted to hire a cycle rickshaw to visit the other significant temples as well. The Birla Vishwanath Mandir or New Kashi Vishwanath temple is situated within the Benaras Hindu University (BHU) campus. Along the way, we also made a stop at the Sri Durga Devi Mandir or The Monkey Temple. The Tulsi Manas Temple, located near the Durga temple, is a well-known temple. The Sankat Mochan Temple is dedicated to Lord Hanuman. Sarnath, which is located 10 km away, is a must-visit place for those traveling to Varanasi. You can read more about my experience at Sarnath in my blog here >

FROZEN MOMENTS FROM THE STREETS OF VARANASI

“HOLY COW” :

The cows of Varanasi are typically gentle and peaceful, but occasional encounters can occur in the narrow streets. I was startled by a loud noise and witnessed a man delivering a hard slap to the cow’s left cheek. The poor animal made no sound and quickly retreated into an alley, searching for her favorite snack in a garbage bin.

“दिये जलते हैं, फुल खिलते हैं, बड़ी मुश्किल से मगर…” “SORROWS OF A LITTLE GIRL”.

“SORROWS OF A LITTLE GIRL” :

The young girl was peddling diyas by the ghats when an elderly woman yelled at her for encroaching on her space. The look of shock on the girl’s face was truly moving, bringing to mind the lyrics of the popular Hindi song “Diye jalte hai, phool khilte hai” ( (“दिये जलते हैं, फुल खिलते हैं,  बड़ी मुश्किल से मगर…” “Lamps glow, flowers bloom, but it is hard to find real friends in this world…”). This moment was definitely one of the highlights of my journey.

A JOURNEY BACK TO THE FORGOTTEN PAST.  OH! YEAH, SOME ANIMALS ARE FASHIONABLE .

THE LOCKED DOOR FROM VARANASI STREETS

A DOOR THAT TAKES YOU FOR A TIME-TRAVEL. KNOCK AT YOUR RISK..!

THE TECHNICIAN WHO REPAIRS ANYTHING EXCEPT BROKEN HEARTS

SEAGULLS, YOUR USUAL COMPANIONS DURING A BOAT RIDE

A FLOCK OF SEAGULLS SURROUNDING THE BOAT FOR A SNACK

The day in Varanasi commences and concludes with the reverence of River Ganga. Water, a fundamental element of nature, is essential for life and has been venerated since ancient times. Observing the Ganga Aarti, I was fascinated by the incense smoke transforming into rain clouds, fulfilling its role to nourish the earth below and complete the water cycle. What other entities deserve worship in this world?!

GANGA AARTI . WORSHIP OF RIVER GANGA

GANGA AARTI . WORSHIP OF RIVER GANGA

BE THE GUIDING LIGHT IN THIS DARK WORLD . FLOATING LAMPS DRIFT ALONG THE RIVER.

INDIA, A COUNTRY OF CONTRASTS AND CONTRADICTIONS.

WHEN TIME STANDS STILL. A PLACE WHERE HISTORY STANDS FROZEN.

A USUAL SCENE EARLY IN THE MORNING. COWS ENJOYING A GARBAGE MEAL. HEY! MIND THAT DOG

A LAZY MORNING AT VARANASI

THIS IS OUR HOLY PLACE . AND WE DO WHATEVER WE LIKE

OH! YEAH. I AM A MACHO MAN. SO WHAT ?!

YOU WASH YOUR SINS IN GANGA. WE WASH THE SINS OF YOUR CLOTHES. AT DHOBI GHAT (WASHER-MAN GHAT)

AT DHOBI GHAT, VARANASI

AT DHOBI GHAT, VARANASI

THE CYCLE OF LIFE

FREEDOM IS EVERYTHING.

COLOURS OF DEVOTION.

THE HALF-SUBMERGED TEMPLE AT CINDHIA GHAT

SO, WHAT’S COOKING ? A STREET VENDOR PREPARING POORIS

THE TREE OF LIFE. YOU NEVER FORGET CERTAIN PLACES & FRAMES . THIS IS ONE OF THEM

UNITED COLOURS OF DEVOTION

THE GOLDEN HOUR

TWILIGHT HOUR AT THE GHATS

SUN RISES, VARANASI WAKES UP

AN OPEN-AIR SHAVE. FROM THE STREETS OF VARANASI

HOLY MAN FROM THE WEST

THE OVERSEER WITH A SPEAR

BLESSINGS FROM VARANASI

BE THE BRIGHT LIGHT IN THIS DARK WORLD

THE SOUND OF SILENCE

AND FINALLY, EVERYTHING ENDS HERE. CREMATION CEREMONY AT MANIKARNIKA GHAT

A FRAME THAT SPEAKS FOR ITSELF. FACE THE ULTIMATE TRUTH AT MANIKARNIKA GHAT. A BODY BURNS AND ANOTHER ONE WAITS.

The Manikarnika ghat in Varanasi is a sacred Hindu cremation ground located along the banks of the Ganga river. Here, bodies are cremated day and night, with one pyre burning as another awaits its turn. The firewood piles up, turning into heaps of ash every hour. A priest stands by, ready to collect the human remains in an earthen pot. Nearby, a cow and a goat nibble on the flowers that once adorned the deceased. A black buffalo, believed to be the vehicle of Yama, the God of death, observes silently. The heat waves from the burning bodies create a hazy backdrop, sending a chill down your spine.

I have witnessed the co-existence of the past, present, and eternity in this extraordinary city. A enigmatic place caught between the realms of life and death, where the simplicity of death contrasts with the complexities of life. Now, it is time to return home and resume the journey of a mere mortal.

A boat ride across Ganga River in the night rejuvenates the body and soul. Experience it yourself :