We had the chance to explore the remnants of a once great civilization in Hampi. Together, we ventured back in time to experience the blend of myth and history in Anegundi. We also delved into the traces of early human settlements in the area and examined the primitive cave paintings at Onake Kindi. Now, let’s journey even further into the past to the enigmatic ‘valley of the dead’, where the history of ancient human habitation peacefully resides. Hire Benakal (also known as Hirebenakal or Hirebenkal ಹಿರೇಬೆಣಕಲ್) is a serene village adjacent to Anegundi, located approximately 50 km from Hampi.
This impressive megalithic burial site in Karnataka, India, is believed to be around 3000 years old and is recognized as one of the largest necropolises in the region. Referred to as ‘Elu Guddagalu’ in the Kannada language, which translates to ‘Seven hillocks’, the site comprises approximately 400 megalithic structures (dolmens) that were constructed between 800 BCE to 200 BCE, spanning the period from Neolithic to the Iron Age.
The initial documentation of this site dates back to 1835 during the British rule, when Philip Meadows Taylor’s findings were published in the Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society.
While the Archaeology Survey of India (ASI) took over the possession of the site in 1955, there has been little effort made to study or preserve this historical site. Apart from a few sign-boards alongside the trekking route, the site has remained neglected until now. The proposal for obtaining UNESCO World Heritage status for Hirebenkal is still pending approval.
During my search for Hire Benkal village, I found it located on Raichur-Koppal State Highway, around 10 kilometers west of Gangavati town. The village was easily traceable, but upon driving around, I realized that locating the megalithic site would be nearly impossible without the help of local villagers.
Upon arriving at the site, the locals informed us that the area is known as Moryar Gudda, which translates to “Hill of the dwarfs,” and the small stone huts are referred to as ‘Moryar Mane’ or “Houses of the dwarfs.” Two friendly young boys kindly offered to act as our guides. A short ten-minute off-drive through beautiful paddy fields, mango farms, and beans plantations brought us to the foothills of Moryar Gudda, where we noticed a couple of signboards from the Archaeological Survey of India cautioning against causing any damage to the protected site. The boys also cautioned us to avoid the area after dusk due to the presence of bears and poisonous reptiles.
Hey there! Just a quick reminder to make sure you’ve got your hats on and plenty of water packed for the trek. The trail is quite challenging and could take a minimum of 2 hours. It’s best to stick close to the local guides to avoid getting lost in the wild. The path is covered with thorny bushes, cacti, and slippery boulders, and is mainly used by a few shepherds. Oh, and our guides even treated us to some wild berries they gathered from the forest along the way.
As we followed the sign-boards, we continued climbing until we stumbled upon a small water stream. Nestled beside it was another sign displaying a map of the area. After 45 minutes of a tiring trek, we reached a large rock structure that resembled a shelter. To our amazement, this was the home of Neolithic rock art, featuring paintings made with natural pigments like red ochre that had survived the forces of nature for thousands of years. The paintings depicted people engaged in various daily activities such as dancing and hunting, along with animals like deer, bulls, antelopes, peacocks, and horses.
During my exploration of the cave paintings, I took some time to capture pictures of the ancient artwork. As I ventured up the hill for about 10-15 minutes, we came across a fascinating sight – a stone kettledrum positioned atop a boulder towering 10 meters high. The stone had a diameter of 2 meters and was reportedly used by early inhabitants to signal important events or potential invasions.
It is believed that when struck with a piece of wood or rock, this kettledrum produced a powerful sound that could be heard from several kilometers away. This discovery shed light on the ingenious communication methods employed by the early settlers in the region.
Upon reaching the plains, it’s a 15-minute walk to the area where the dolmens begin to appear. The initial set of dolmens are newer and have suffered some damage. These megalithic burial chambers typically consist of three vertical side stones topped with a circular stone, known as the capstone, creating a roof. It’s fascinating to observe that these dolmens were constructed without the use of cement or mortar yet remain incredibly sturdy. Some of the dolmens are buried, while others are partially buried, known as cists and dolmenoid cists, respectively. Certain dolmens feature small round portholes on all four sides, resembling small dwelling places, which led to the name “Moryar Mane” (Houses of the dwarfs). Similar dolmens near Munnar in Kerala are called Muniyara (Saint’s houses).
Unfortunately, many of the chambers in this area have been extensively damaged, with broken stones scattered about. Our guides, Kutub Sab & Raja, informed us that the burial chambers were targeted by thieves in search of gold and other valuables belonging to the deceased. They even shared stories of individuals uncovering gold within the area. The sign-board of ASI explicitly states that there are no gold or valuables present and instructs visitors against engaging in treasure hunting activities.
I was informed that prior to the destruction, ASI was able to excavate Megalithic and Neolithic pottery, iron slag, and other artifacts from the site.
As I venture further, I encounter the ancient set of dolmens sprawling across 49 acres. Remarkably, these structures have endured thousands of years of environmental wear and remain remarkably preserved. The breathtaking vista of the valley truly justifies the name of my blog. It is indeed a valley of the dead!
Continuing my exploration of the ghost town, I stumble upon a picturesque pond adorned with lotus flowers. This tranquil spot might have once served as a quarry for extracting stone slabs or as a source of water for ancient rituals. Further ahead lies the older set of dolmens spread across an area of 49 acres. Surprisingly, most of these structures remain intact after thousands of years of torture from the environment. The spectacular view of the valley justifies the title of my blog. Literally, a valley of the dead !
Walking further through the ghost town leads you to a beautiful pond filled with lotus flowers, which probably was a quarry to extract the stone slabs, or to provide water for their rituals.
However, Not much of research has been carried out to understand the technology adopted by our ancestors to cut, shape and transport those huge granite pieces. No one knows what was their religion, faith, rituals, food habit whatsoever. The secrets of the life of our ancestors would be an interesting subject for those enthusiastic historians and research scholars.
Let’s leave our ancestors in peace. Our exploration has to continue, in search of new places, new stories.
Now, have a look at a short video clip :
Karnataka travel
January 21, 2018
Brilliant way to bring unexplored places in front of the audience. I have heard about this place in Karnataka, but never got a chance to venture into it. My next destination is fixed. Amazing travel stories, bro. Take it easy.
GOPAN NAIR
January 21, 2018
India is a land of history & mystery. Let’s travel together to see the unseen India. Appreciate your comments.
Elliot Johnson
January 24, 2018
Hi,
Really fascinated to go through your travel blogs and bumped into this historical site. I am a historian interested to visit this place during my next trip to India in the coming months. Any special permission required for foreign travellers ? Could you help me with arranging guides ?
GOPAN NAIR
January 24, 2018
I will send a personal message to you. Thanks
Larry May & L.Chang
December 09, 2018
Missed this place during our last trip to Hampi. In fact we never knew about this place and happened to go through your blog pages much later. What a magnificent place. Loved your narration & pictures. Good job !!
GOPAN NAIR
December 10, 2018
Thanks for your valuable feedback. Hope you would like to visit this country again to look for those hidden treasures.
SUBHASH HEGDE
December 20, 2018
Could not locate this place during my last trip. You have provided enough information . Loved this article. Thank you.
GOPAN NAIR
December 26, 2018
Glad to know that you liked the post. Please keep in touch.
ashis chaudhury
September 03, 2019
Can I visit the place with my family from Hampi, is the place is safe to visit . total time to visit the place.
GOPAN NAIR
September 05, 2019
Thank you for your comments. Hampi is absolutely safe for families. Plan for at least 2-3 days to cover all the places of interest. There is a lot of trekking involved. So, be prepared for that. Have a nice trip.
GOPAN NAIR
September 05, 2019
Sorry, I overlooked your concern about Hire Benkal. I thought you were planning to visit Hampi. Hire Benkal is a remote village and a bit difficult to locate without the help of locals. There are plenty of helpful boys in that little village who could possibly guide you to the site. The trek is a bit tedious and there are no facilities around.
ashis chaudhury
September 06, 2019
Yes I will visit Hampi , and the if possible to Hire Benkal from Hampi. A auto driver know the place, he will drive Hire Benkal with us.
GOPAN NAIR
September 27, 2019
That’s good news. Have a nice trip.
MILIND NAYAK
June 14, 2020
You took us back to the past. It was a breathtaking experience. Good work.
GOPAN NAIR
June 15, 2020
Thank you. Hope you enjoyed it.
Felice
December 03, 2021
While india is FULL of amazing ancient sites this one here – moriyara hills, hire benakal – is truly outstanding. it seems that few people think outside the box when seeing this spectacular settlement. “burial place” is the usual answer from officials in such cases … . most of these small dolmens are built like their big brothers in other parts of the world. please search for caucasus dolmens, just one example. they appear when giant people live side by side with smaller ones, like us today, or even smaller (homo floresiensis etc.) . bhima, nimrod, goliath and many more historical personalities point to the fact that there were giant tribes on this planet, not only long ago but some are still left. btw, look at the rocks in the background: these are giant walls, same as e.g. in paraiba, brazil. anyway, thanks for showing us one important part of megalithic india!
GOPAN NAIR
December 03, 2021
Thank you very much for your valuable comments.