We had the chance to explore the remnants of a once great civilization in Hampi. Together, we ventured back in time to experience the blend of myth and history in Anegundi. We also delved into the traces of early human settlements in the area and examined the primitive cave paintings at Onake Kindi. Now, let’s journey even further into the past to the enigmatic ‘valley of the dead’, where the history of ancient human habitation peacefully resides. Hire Benakal (also known as Hirebenakal or Hirebenkal ಹಿರೇಬೆಣಕಲ್) is a serene village adjacent to Anegundi, located approximately 50 km from Hampi.

HIRE BENAKAL : MEGALITHIC STONE STRUCTURES OR DOLMENS

This impressive megalithic burial site in Karnataka, India, is believed to be around 3000 years old and is recognized as one of the largest necropolises in the region. Referred to as ‘Elu Guddagalu’ in the Kannada language, which translates to ‘Seven hillocks’, the site comprises approximately 400 megalithic structures (dolmens) that were constructed between 800 BCE to 200 BCE, spanning the period from Neolithic to the Iron Age.

The initial documentation of this site dates back to 1835 during the British rule, when Philip Meadows Taylor’s findings were published in the Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society.

ENTRANCE TO THE HISTORICAL SITE AT HIRE BENAKAL (HIREBENKAL)

While the Archaeology Survey of India (ASI) took over the possession of the site in 1955, there has been little effort made to study or preserve this historical site. Apart from a few sign-boards alongside the trekking route, the site has remained neglected until now. The proposal for obtaining UNESCO World Heritage status for Hirebenkal is still pending approval.

During my search for Hire Benkal village, I found it located on Raichur-Koppal State Highway, around 10 kilometers west of Gangavati town. The village was easily traceable, but upon driving around, I realized that locating the megalithic site would be nearly impossible without the help of local villagers.

SIGN-BOARD AT THE BOTTOM FROM WHERE TO BEGIN THE TREK

Upon arriving at the site, the locals informed us that the area is known as Moryar Gudda, which translates to “Hill of the dwarfs,” and the small stone huts are referred to as ‘Moryar Mane’ or “Houses of the dwarfs.” Two friendly young boys kindly offered to act as our guides. A short ten-minute off-drive through beautiful paddy fields, mango farms, and beans plantations brought us to the foothills of Moryar Gudda, where we noticed a couple of signboards from the Archaeological Survey of India cautioning against causing any damage to the protected site. The boys also cautioned us to avoid the area after dusk due to the presence of bears and poisonous reptiles.

THE WATER STREAM EN-ROUTE

Hey there! Just a quick reminder to make sure you’ve got your hats on and plenty of water packed for the trek. The trail is quite challenging and could take a minimum of 2 hours. It’s best to stick close to the local guides to avoid getting lost in the wild. The path is covered with thorny bushes, cacti, and slippery boulders, and is mainly used by a few shepherds. Oh, and our guides even treated us to some wild berries they gathered from the forest along the way.

TREACHEROUS TRACK THAT LEADS TO THE TOP OF THE HILLOCK

TREACHEROUS TRACK THAT LEADS TO THE TOP OF THE HILLOCK

THE SIGN-BOARD THAT SHOWS A MAP OF THE AREA

As we followed the sign-boards, we continued climbing until we stumbled upon a small water stream. Nestled beside it was another sign displaying a map of the area. After 45 minutes of a tiring trek, we reached a large rock structure that resembled a shelter. To our amazement, this was the home of Neolithic rock art, featuring paintings made with natural pigments like red ochre that had survived the forces of nature for thousands of years. The paintings depicted people engaged in various daily activities such as dancing and hunting, along with animals like deer, bulls, antelopes, peacocks, and horses.

THE ROCK SHELTER WITH CAVE PAINTINGS

ANCIENT ROCK ART AT HIRE BENAKAL (HIREBENKAL)

ANCIENT ROCK ART AT HIRE BENAKAL (HIREBENKAL)

ANCIENT ROCK ART AT HIRE BENAKAL (HIREBENKAL)

ANCIENT ROCK ART AT HIRE BENAKAL (HIREBENKAL)

ANCIENT ROCK ART AT HIRE BENAKAL (HIREBENKAL)

During my exploration of the cave paintings, I took some time to capture pictures of the ancient artwork. As I ventured up the hill for about 10-15 minutes, we came across a fascinating sight – a stone kettledrum positioned atop a boulder towering 10 meters high. The stone had a diameter of 2 meters and was reportedly used by early inhabitants to signal important events or potential invasions.

It is believed that when struck with a piece of wood or rock, this kettledrum produced a powerful sound that could be heard from several kilometers away. This discovery shed light on the ingenious communication methods employed by the early settlers in the region.

STONE KETTLEDRUM KEPT ON TOP OF A BOULDER

Upon reaching the plains, it’s a 15-minute walk to the area where the dolmens begin to appear. The initial set of dolmens are newer and have suffered some damage. These megalithic burial chambers typically consist of three vertical side stones topped with a circular stone, known as the capstone, creating a roof. It’s fascinating to observe that these dolmens were constructed without the use of cement or mortar yet remain incredibly sturdy. Some of the dolmens are buried, while others are partially buried, known as cists and dolmenoid cists, respectively. Certain dolmens feature small round portholes on all four sides, resembling small dwelling places, which led to the name “Moryar Mane” (Houses of the dwarfs). Similar dolmens near Munnar in Kerala are called Muniyara (House of sages or holy men). Read about the Muniyaras of Munnar here.

Unfortunately, many of the chambers in this area have been extensively damaged, with broken stones scattered about. Our guides, Kutub Sab & Raja, informed us that the burial chambers were targeted by thieves in search of gold and other valuables belonging to the deceased. They even shared stories of individuals uncovering gold within the area. The sign-board of ASI explicitly states that there are no gold or valuables present and instructs visitors against engaging in treasure hunting activities.

I was informed that prior to the destruction, ASI was able to excavate Megalithic and Neolithic pottery, iron slag, and other artifacts from the site.

THE LITTLE GUY WHO GREETED US TO THE ROCK KINGDOM

THE ROCK WITH PECULIAR DESIGNS

FIRST SET OF DOLMENS WITH PORTHOLES ON THE SIDES

VALLEY OF THE DEAD ! ARRAYS OF DOLMENS AT HIRE BENAKAL (HIREBANKAL)

VALLEY OF THE DEAD ! ARRAYS OF DOLMENS AT HIRE BENAKAL (HIREBANKAL)

VALLEY OF THE DEAD ! ARRAYS OF DOLMENS AT HIRE BENAKAL (HIREBANKAL)

DOLMENS AT HIRE BENAKAL (HIREBANKAL). BUILT STRONG TO WITHSTAND FORCES

DOLMENS AT HIRE BENAKAL (HIREBANKAL). BUILT STRONG TO WITHSTAND FORCES

As I venture further, I encounter the ancient set of dolmens sprawling across 49 acres. Remarkably, these structures have endured thousands of years of environmental wear and remain remarkably preserved. The breathtaking vista of the valley truly justifies the name of my blog. It is indeed a valley of the dead!

Continuing my exploration of the ghost town, I stumble upon a picturesque pond adorned with lotus flowers. This tranquil spot might have once served as a quarry for extracting stone slabs or as a source of water for ancient rituals. Further ahead lies the older set of dolmens spread across an area of 49 acres. Surprisingly, most of these structures remain intact after thousands of years of torture from the environment. The spectacular view of the valley justifies the title of my blog. Literally, a valley of the dead !

Walking further through the ghost town leads you to a beautiful pond filled with lotus flowers, which probably was a quarry to extract the stone slabs, or to provide water for their rituals.

THE BEAUTIFUL LOTUS POND ON TOP OF THE HILL, HIREBENKAL

THE BEAUTIFUL LOTUS POND ON TOP OF THE HILL, HIREBENKAL

However, Not much of research has been carried out to understand the technology adopted by our ancestors to cut, shape and transport those huge granite pieces. No one knows what was their religion, faith, rituals, food habit whatsoever. The secrets of the life of our ancestors would be an interesting subject for those enthusiastic historians and research scholars.

Let’s leave our ancestors in peace. Our exploration has to continue, in search of new places, new stories.

Now, have a look at a short video clip :