The relentless bombardment from the artillery persisted for weeks and months, despite the absence of any actual enemies in the vicinity. Surprisingly, it was the Portuguese soldiers who were using the cannons to target the imposing rock sculptures in Elephanta Caves as part of their training exercises. Reflecting on the historical timeline of explorations, invasions, and colonization, it becomes evident that bloodshed and devastation were the unwelcome companions of each successful event. Descendants of the ruthless invaders who reduced the treasures of a magnificent country to mere rubble and sand should feel remorseful for the actions of their ancestors. While we proudly extol the rich culture and heritage of India, it is disheartening that these distressing truths are frequently overlooked.

The ancient island kingdom near Mumbai harbour was known as Gharapuri, which translates to ‘City of Caves’ in Marathi. Evidence of early settlement dating back to the 2nd century BC can still be seen on this little island. For travelers in Mumbai, it offers a quick escape from the bustling city life.

WAKING UP A CITY THAT NEVER SLEEPS. AT GATEWAY OF INDIA, MUMBAI

GATEWAY OF INDIA, AS SEEN FROM THE ARABIAN SEA. ELEPHANTA FERRY STARTS HERE

The island is made up of two small hillocks on its eastern and western sides, separated by a narrow ravine. Carved caves and sculptures made of Basalt rock, similar to those found in Ajanta or Ellora caves, can be found on the island.

While the exact period of construction is uncertain, the cave architecture indicates the influence of the Konkan Mauryas and Badami Chalukyas of the 6th and 7th centuries. The island has passed through the hands of various dynasties, including the Trikutakas, Rashtrakutas, Yadavas, Portuguese, Marathas, and British.

Upon the Portuguese occupation of the island in 1534, they encountered a large Elephant statue made of solid basalt rock at the island’s entrance. This led them to name the island Elephanta (“Ilha Do Elefante”). Interestingly, Elephanta is mentioned in one of Leonardo da Vinci’s manuscripts. The island measures approximately 10 sq km to 16 sq km during high and low tides, respectively, and is located around 11 km east of the Gateway of India in Mumbai.

THE MAGNIFICENT TRIMURTI STATUE AT SHIVA TEMPLE (CAVE-1) OF ELEPHANTA

The Portuguese once decided to carry the elephant statue home, but during transportation process their chains broke, causing the statue to plummet into the sea. In 1661, Portugal’s King John IV’s daughter Catherine was married to Charles II of England and as part of the marriage treaty, Elephanta island was handed over to the British as dowry. This transfer of ownership marked the end of Portugal’s control over the island. The elephant statue completely collapsed in 1814, but fifty years later, the British restored the dilapidated statue and relocated it to the shore in 1864. It is currently preserved at the Bhau Daji Lad Museum at Jijamata Udyan in Mumbai.

Elephanta island is home to 5 Hindu Caves and 2 Buddhist Caves, with Cave-1 being the largest and most significant, once serving as a Shiva Temple. Carved entirely from solid basalt rock, this remarkable monument has withstood nature’s wrath and human interference.

SEAGULLS ACCOMPANYING THE BOAT DURING THE TRIP

Elephanta Island welcomes visitors every day except Mondays. Taking a boat trip to Elephanta can be an incredible experience. You can catch a ferry from the Gateway of India, with the first service departing at 9:00 AM and the last boat returning from the island at 5:00 PM. While there are Economy and Deluxe round trip tickets available, I didn’t notice much of a difference between the boats themselves, as they are all old fishing boats. However, they do have adequate safety measures and life jackets. I paid 180 Rs per person for a deluxe boat ticket, plus an extra 10 Rs for a seat on the upper deck.

The boat ride takes around an hour, passing through busy waters frequented by large container vessels and merchant ships. One of the most captivating sights was the flock of seagulls that followed us, hoping for a snack. While it’s not advisable to feed them junk food, their acrobatic skills to catch snacks in mid-air were truly impressive and added an entertaining element to the trip.

THE TOY TRAIN AT ELEPHANTA GETS A FACE LIFT

ENTRANCE OF CAVE-1 AT ELEPHANTA

After arriving at the jetty, you’ll find a narrow path alongside the mangrove forest that leads to the base of the hill. For those unable to walk the distance, there’s also the option of taking a toy train. Climbing the steps between souvenir shops will bring you to the entrance gates of the caves, with entry tickets costing 30 Rs. for Indians and alliance partners, and 500 Rs. for other nationalities. The first cave you’ll encounter is Cave-1, which is not just a cave but an impressive temple complex. It features massive stone pillars supporting a roof that covers an area of 60,000 SqFt, along with numerous smaller Shiva shrines and courtyards. The walls are adorned with intricate sculptures of Shiva in various poses, some of which were once covered with mural paintings. As you walk through the dark chamber and reach the south wall, you’ll be greeted by the awe-inspiring wall carving of Shiva in his Trimurti form at the center.

The colossal monolithic statue, standing at 20Ft tall, depicts the three forms of Shiva as Creator, Protector, and Destroyer. Adjacent to the Trimurti statue is the Ardhanarishvara form of Shiva, as well as the carving of Gangadhara Shiva on the right side. Many of the monumental pillars have been destroyed by natural forces and vandalism, but have been painstakingly restored by the Indian archaeology department. A stroll through the courtyard will lead you to another Shiva Shrine guarded by Dwarapalakas, albeit in a partially damaged state.

Detailed descriptions of the individual statues are available alongside displayed pictures. While the other caves may not be as remarkable, you can still take a quick roundabout in less than 10-20 minutes. At the top of the hill, you can still see two large British Cannons as remnants of the colonial past. Beware of the mischievous monkeys who may try to snatch your food items.

LARGE HALL WITH MASSIVE PILLARS INSIDE CAVE-1 SHIVA TEMPLE

SHIVA KILLING ANDHAKA THE ASURA

SHIVA IN NATARAJA (DANCER) POSTURE

MEDITATING SHIVA

WEDDING OF SHIVA AND PARVATI

SHIVA AND PARVATI ON KAILASA PEAK

RAVANA SHAKING MOUNT KAILASA

A SHIVA SHRINE WITH BADLY DAMAGED DWARAPALAKAS

ANOTHER VIEW OF SHIVA SHRINE WITH BADLY DAMAGED DWARAPALAKAS

VIEW FROM RIGHT SIDE : SHIVA SUPPORTING THE DESCEND OF GANGA FROM HEAVEN

VIEW FROM LEFT : SHIVA IN THE ARDHANARISHVARA POSTURE (HALF MAN, HALF WOMAN)

SHIVA IN THE ARDHANARISHVARA POSTURE (HALF MAN, HALF WOMAN)

COURTYARD INSIDE THE TEMPLE COMPLEX

INSIDE THE SHIVA SHRINE WITH SEVERELY DAMAGED DWARAPALAKAS

INSIDE THE SHIVA SHRINE WITH SEVERELY DAMAGED DWARAPALAKAS

LARGE LINGA INSIDE THE SHIVA SHRINE

VIEWS FROM INSIDE THE SHIVA SHRINE

VIEWS FROM INSIDE THE SHIVA SHRINE

REMAINING HINDU CAVES IN SEQUENCE

REMAINING HINDU CAVES IN SEQUENCE

REMAINING HINDU CAVES IN SEQUENCE

REMAINING HINDU CAVES IN SEQUENCE

AN INCOMPLETE CAVE

The Elephanta caves were granted the prestigious UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 1987. These incredible monuments face various threats, including industrial pollution, natural forces, water seepage, and salt content in the atmosphere. The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), in collaboration with UNESCO, is making dedicated efforts to safeguard this magnificent monument, ensuring that future generations can catch a glimpse of our illustrious past.

LOCAL LADIES AT ELEPHANTA BIDDING GOOD-BYE

How to Reach Elephanta Caves :

• Nearest Airport : Mumbai
• By local train : Alight at CST (Chatrapati Shivaji Terminus) or Churchgate station
• By Bus or Taxi : Go to Gateway of India

Remaining part of journey to Elephanta island by Ferry/Boat Services
Distance between Gateway of India and Elephanta island : 10Km
Time required : 1 Hr