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Apr 23
in Indian architecture & Heritage 12 comments tags: aihole, Badami, bangalkot, Bhaje, cave, caves, chalukya, fort, Ganapatim, gop.org, gopan, gopan g nair, gops, gops photography, hindu, india, jain, karnataka, mahakoota, mahakuta, Malegitti, Nataraja, pattadakal, pattadakallu, RAVALPHADI, RAVANA PHADI, RAVANAPHADI, Shivalaya, shrine, Temples, tour, tourism, vatapi

BADAMI : MAGNIFICENT CAVES OF ANCIENT INDIA

BADAMI (ಬದಾಮಿ or Vatapi as it was known originally) is an ancient temple town located in the Bangalkot district of Nothern Karnataka in India. The place ‘Badiamaioi’ mentioned by Greek Geographer Ptolemy (150 AD) has been identified as Badami.

Badami was the capital of Chalukya dynasty who ruled several parts of Karnataka between 540 to 757 AD. The town of Badami lies 460 Kms from Bangalore, situated  at the mouth of a ravine protected by huge red sandstone ridges on either sides with a beautiful lake (Agastya lake) in the middle.

BADAMI CAVE TEMPLES. MAGNIFICENT INDIAN ARCHITECTURE

BADAMI CAVE TEMPLES. MAGNIFICENT INDIAN ARCHITECTURE

Legend has it that Badami was named after an asura called Vatapi who got killed by sage Agastya.  Chalukya rulers had fortified the hills surrounding the town and built several temples in and around the area. The temples and ruins at Badami, Pattadakkal, Aihole and Mahakuta are good examples of Chalukya architecture.

The most famous among this group of temples are the rock-cut cave temples built between 6th and 8th centuries AD.

PANORAMIC VIEW OF BADAMI ROCK-CUT CAVE TEMPLES

PANORAMIC VIEW OF BADAMI ROCK-CUT CAVE TEMPLES

There is a famous Carnatic recital “Vatapi Ganapatim Bhaje” praising lord Ganesha at Vatapi, composed by Muthuswami Dikshitar. The Chalukyas were defeated by Pallavas in 7th century and the idol of Vatapi Ganapati was transferred to TamilNadu which is now at Uthrapathiswaraswamy Temple, near Thanjavur.

Badami Cave Temples were built by King Pulikeshi-I during 600 to 700 AD  . The architecture of these temples follow a blend of North Indian Nagara style as well as South Indian Dravidian style.  There are 4 caves in total, where Shaivism, Vaishnavism & Jainism were being practiced side by side. This is a fine example of religious tolerance of Chalukya rulers. Cave-1 is dedicated to Lord Shiva, Caves-2&3 to worship Lord Vishnu and Cave-4 was a Jain shrine.

Beware of monkey thieves ! Avoid carrying bags and food items. Those monkeys are experts in snatching your stuff.

INTERIOR OF CAVE-1 LORD SHIVA STATUES

INTERIOR OF CAVE-1 : LORD SHIVA STATUES

Cave-1 is the oldest of them all, carved out of red sandstone in 578 AD . Climb up a flight of steps that leads you to a rectangular sanctum with a number of pillars and fine carvings of Lord Shiva and Parvati in various poses. The walls, pillars & ceiling are highly ornamental and also decorated with murals.  The major attraction of the cave is the statue of Shiva in the form of 18 armed Nataraja,  known as ‘Lord of Dance’. It has been made in such a way that each combination of a pair of hands represents a mudra of Bharatanatyam dance (a form of Indian classical dance) . A total of 81 such mudras have been depicted in this amazing sculpture. Shiva’s son Ganesh could be found watching the dance or trying to imitate his father. Nandi the bull also stands next to Nataraj in the sculpture. Adjacent to the Nataraja statue is another grand sculpture of goddess Mahishasuramardini .The cave also portrays an idol of Shiva with Lakshmi and Parvathi standing on either sides. The ceiling of the cave is decorated with a Nagaraja motif, the serpent king.

18-ARMED NATARAJA RELIEF AT THE ENTRANCE OF CAVE-1

18-ARMED NATARAJA RELIEF AT THE ENTRANCE OF CAVE-1

LORD SHIVA IN ANOTHER POSE : CAVE-1

LORD SHIVA IN ANOTHER POSTURE : CAVE-1

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LORD SHIVA WITH PARVATI & LAKSHMI ON EITHER SIDES . INSIDE CAVE-1

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NAGARAJA MOTIF ON THE CEILING : CAVE-1

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REMEMBERING THE GOLDEN PAST : INSIDE CAVE-1

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LORD VISHNU IN THE FORM OF TRIVIKRAMA : CAVE-2

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STATUE OF VARAHA AVATAR & THE DECORATED CEILING : CAVE-2

Cave-2, built in the 6th century AD is similar in size & construction to Cave-1.  It is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in the form of Trivikrama who stands with one foot on Earth and the other pointed towards North.  Vishnu has also been depicted in the avatars of Krishna and Varaha in this temple.

The Dwarapalaka or armed guard can be found at the entrance, holding a flower .  The ceiling has been decorated with an art-work of a wheel with sixteen fish spokes and another one with swastikas built inside square frames.

DWARAPALAKA HOLDING FLOWER : CAVE-2

DWARAPALAKA HOLDING FLOWER : CAVE-2

ROCK-CUT STEPS BETWEEN THE CAVES.

ROCK-CUT STEPS BETWEEN THE CAVES.

Cave-3 is the biggest among all, constructed in 578 AD. This shrine is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his various avatars. The cave has exquisitely carved interiors with a large number of Vishnu’s reliefs like standing Vishnu, Vishnu holding serpent, avatars like Narasimha, Varaha, Harihara and Trivikrama.  The ceiling has been decorated with mural paintings of Lord Brahma with a lotus medallion engraved on the floor beneath it.

CAVE-3 : VISHNU SHRINE. THE BIGGEST AMONG BADAMI CAVE TEMPLES

CAVE-3 : VISHNU SHRINE. THE BIGGEST AMONG BADAMI CAVE TEMPLES

STATUE OF LORD VISHNU IN THE FORM OF TRIVIKRAMA.

STATUE OF LORD VISHNU IN THE FORM OF TRIVIKRAMA. CAVE-3

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CAVE-3, STATUE OF LORD VISHNU SITTING ON ANANTA THE SNAKE

ANOTHER VIEW OF CAVE-3, DISPLAYING THE CRAFTMANSHIP

ANOTHER VIEW OF CAVE-3 THAT DISPLAYS CHALUKYA CRAFTSMANSHIP

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LORD VISHNU IN NARASIMHA AVATAR : CAVE-3

INTERIOR OF THE SANCTUM : CAVE-3. MURALS ON CEILING & LOTUS ON THE FLOOR

INTERIOR OF THE SANCTUM IN CAVE-3. MURALS ON CEILING & LOTUS CARVED ON THE FLOOR

Cave-4 is a Jain shrine built later in 6th or 7th century.  It contains incredibly beautiful carvings of Bahubali (Mahavir) and several Tirthankaras of Jain religion adorning the sanctum.

CAVE-4 , DEDICATED TO JAIN RELIGION

INSIDE CAVE-4 , DEDICATED TO JAIN RELIGION

CAVE-4 WITH THE STATUES OF BAHUBALI AND OTHER TIRTHANKARAS OF JAIN RELIGION

CAVE-4 WITH THE STATUES OF BAHUBALI AND OTHER TIRTHANKARAS OF JAIN RELIGION

Badami Fort is spread across two hills, most of which got ruined as the result of wars between Chalukyas & Pallavas.  The Chalukya King Pulakeshi I constructed the fort during his reign between 543-566 AD and made it the capital of Chalukya empire. Rock-cut steps leading to the top of the hill start at the archaeological museum. It is a steep climb and a bit strenuous too. Carry enough water with you and keep a watch for monkey menace.  The fort encloses large granaries and two temples viz. the Lower Shivalaya dedicated to Ganesh and the Shiva Shrine Malegitti Shivalaya at a much higher altitude. It is believed that the lower Shivalaya temple is where the  Vatapi Ganapathi idol was originally placed.  The fort also houses treasuries and a Cannon placed there by Tipu Sultan later during  17th century .

GRANARIES ON TOP OF THE FORT

GRANARIES ON TOP OF THE FORT

THE LOWER SHIVALAYA DEDICATED TO LORD GANESHA

THE LOWER SHIVALAYA DEDICATED TO LORD GANESHA. IT IS BELIEVED THAT VATAPI GANAPATHI IDOL WAS ORIGINALLY LOCATED HERE.

CLIMBING UP THE HILL COULD BE TIRESOME . IT IS NICE TO SEE THE DIFFERENT ROCK PATTERNS

CLIMBING UP THE HILL COULD BE TIRESOME . IT IS NICE TO SEE THE DIFFERENT ROCK TEXTURES ON YOUR WAY UP .

MALEGITTI SHIVALAYA WITH BADAMI CAVES IN THE BACKDROP

MALEGITTI SHIVALAYA WITH BADAMI CAVES IN THE BACKDROP

ANOTHER VIEW OF MALEGITTI SHIVALAYA IN TWILIGHT

ANOTHER VIEW OF MALEGITTI SHIVALAYA AMID THE RUINS OF THE FORT.

Other major attractions in Badami are the Bhutanatha temple & Mallikarjuna temples situated on the banks of a tank locally called the Agasthya Tirtha.

BHUTANATHA TEMPLE ON THE BANKS OF AGASTHYA LAKE

BHUTANATHA TEMPLE ON THE BANKS OF AGASTHYA LAKE

WHEN THE SUN SETS BEHIND THE AGASTHYA LAKE

WHEN THE SUN SETS BEHIND THE AGASTHYA LAKE

One should not miss the other sightseeing places like Pattadakal, Aihole and Mahakuta, scattered around Badami . The historical village of Pattadakal lies at a distance of around 20 km from Badami . Aihole is another protected archaeological site situated 14 Kms from Pattadakal . These sites have several picturesque temples dating back to the 6th and 7th century AD. The drive through these village roads is really interesting as it passes through sunflower gardens & green farms. The flora and fauna around the country-side is incredibly beautiful.

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PATTADAKAL : ANCIENT TEMPLES RESTORED BY DEPT OF ARCHEOLOGY

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PATTADAKAL KASHI VISHWANATHA TEMPLE

PATTADAKAL TEMPLE RUINS PRESERVED BY DEPT OF ARCHEOLOGY

PATTADAKAL TEMPLE RUINS PRESERVED BY DEPT OF ARCHEOLOGY

JOURNEY INTO THE PAST, RIDING ON A BEAM OF LIGHT. PATTADAKKAL

JOURNEY INTO THE PAST, RIDING ON A BEAM OF LIGHT. PATTADAKKAL

PATHWAY TO HISTORY : OVER 1300 YEARS OLD TEMPLES AT PATTADAKAL, KARNATAKA.

PATHWAY TO HISTORY : OVER 1300 YEARS OLD TEMPLES AT PATTADAKAL, KARNATAKA.

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AIHOLE : TEMPLES PRESERVED BY DEPT OF ARCHEOLOGY

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INSIDE RAVANA PHADI (RAVALPHADI) CAVE TEMPLE, AIHOLE

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RAVANA PHADI (RAVALPHADI) CAVE TEMPLE, AIHOLE

PATTADAKAL. AN EXQUISITE CARVING OF NANDI THE BULL. PARTLY DAMAGED.

PATTADAKAL. AN EXQUISITE CARVING OF NANDI THE BULL. PARTLY DAMAGED. LOOK AT THE FINE DETAILS OF THE ROPE !!

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MAHAKUTESVARA TEMPLE AND THE VISHNU PUSHKARNI POND. PILGRIMS TAKING HOLY DIP.

Mahakuta is another village that lies 14 Kms from Badami .  There are several temples in Mahakuta temple complex, the most important ones are Mahakutesvara temple  and the Mallikarjuna temple. A large pond called Vishnu Pushkarni that gets filled by a natural spring is very important for the pilgrims visiting the complex.  People believe it is auspicious  to take a holy dip in this pond. A small shrine situated in the middle of the tank has a special Shiva Linga (Panchamukha linga or five faced linga).

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TEMPLES AT MAHAKUTA NEAR BADAMI, KARNATAKA

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ARDHANARISWARA STATUE AT MAHAKUTA NEAR BADAMI, KARNATAKA

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ANCIENT CARVINGS FOUND AT MAHAKUTA TEMPLE COMPLEX, BADAMI

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5 FACED SHIVA LINGA (PANCHAMUKHA LINGA) IN THE VISHNU PUSHKARNI TANK. MAHAKUTA, BADAMI

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5 FACED SHIVA LINGA (PANCHAMUKHA LINGA) IN THE VISHNU PUSHKARNI TANK . MAHAKUTA, BADAMI

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PICTURESQUE GREENERY AROUND BADAMI : MARIGOLD PLANTATIONS

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PICTURESQUE GREENERY AROUND BADAMI : SUNFLOWER GARDENS

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FLORA & FAUNA AROUND BADAMI VILLAGE

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LIFE IN THIS LITTLE VILLAGE : BADAMI , KARNATAKA

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AN EVENING AT THE GOSSIP CORNER : BADAMI , KARNATAKA

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PAINTER & HER SUPERVISOR . BADAMI VILLAGE, KARNATAKA

HOMEMAKERS AT BADAMI TOWN, BUSY WASHING THEIR CLOTHES BEFORE SUNSET

HOMEMAKERS AT BADAMI TOWN, BUSY WASHING THEIR CLOTHES BEFORE SUNSET

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A PEACEFUL VILLAGE : BADAMI , KARNATAKA

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A LEISURELY EVENING AT THE BADAMI MARKET, KARNATAKA

Best time to visit :

  • The temperature could shoot upto 45°C during summer . The best period to visit Badami would be October to February .

How to reach :

By Road :

  • Bangalore – Tumakuru – Chitradurga – Hosapete – Kushtagi – Badami  : 454 Km.
  • Bangalore – Bellary – Hosapete – Kushtagi – Badami  : 513 Km.
  • Pune – Satara – Kolhapur – Badami  : 460 Km.
  • Pune – Solapur – Vijayapura – Bangalkote – Badami  : 471 Km.
  • Hyderabad – MahbubNagar – Raichur – Badami  : 424 Km.
  • Hampi – Hosapete – Kushtagi – Badami  : 150 Km.
  • Badami – Pattadakal : 20 Km.
  • Badami –  Aihole : 34 Km.
  • Badami – Mahakuta : 14 Km.

By Air :

  • Nearest airports are Hubli (106 km) and Belgaum (150 km)

By Rail :

  • Badami Railway Station has good connectivity with Bangalore, Hubli, Bijapur, Gadag, Solapur and other cities.
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About the Author: GOPAN NAIR
Process Control Automation Engineer. Freelance Photographer and Graphic Designer

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12 Comments:

  1. Ezhil Ramalingam
    April 23, 2015
    Reply

    Dear Gopan
    This is perfect to the core. Those magnificent statues and reliefs take me to the 6th and 7th centuries in a time machine !!! Those wonderful stone marvels are so inviting that I have to plan again for my visit to this magical land !! Thanks for sharing !!

    • GOPAN NAIR
      April 23, 2015
      Reply

      Thank you very much for your usual support & guidance, dear Sir.

  2. Kaaviyam
    May 08, 2015
    Reply

    Marvelous art work with amazing fine details on those sculptures…are well captured and presented. Thanks a lot for sharing this historical journey!!

    • GOPAN NAIR
      May 09, 2015
      Reply

      Thank you my friend. India is a treasure land.

  3. Hari Madhavan
    May 09, 2015
    Reply

    An exquisite piece of storeytelling both in pictures and in factshare . Humbled at the beauty and heritage that you’ve stretched out before us. By the way-the photostram look absolutely classy: which lens has been used ? Would like to know. Cheers, and thanks for this article.

    • GOPAN NAIR
      May 09, 2015
      Reply

      Thanks for your comments, Hari Madhavan. Appreciate it.
      Regarding the equipment used : I will be writing articles on photographic gear & techniques . Please wait for the same.

  4. DR. PAWAN JAIN
    February 25, 2017
    Reply

    Superb photographs with details. Art historians delight. Thank you for the treat.

    • GOPAN NAIR
      February 27, 2017
      Reply

      Thanks very much doctor, for your valuable comments. India is a land of unlimited possibilities. Let’s explore it together. Don’t forget to drop-in whenever you get some spare time.

  5. Vijay Rathore
    December 09, 2018
    Reply

    Such a wonderful write up !! It was indeed a treat to the eyes. Visited the place after going through your blog. Thanks & keep up the good work.

    • GOPAN NAIR
      December 10, 2018
      Reply

      Those were really encouraging words and thank you for the same. Please do check my pages frequently for more interesting articles.

  6. SAM ADAMS
    January 12, 2019
    Reply

    Very interesting write up and pictures. Great work. Keep it up.

    • GOPAN NAIR
      January 12, 2019
      Reply

      Thank you very much for your visit & comments. Appreciate it.


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