{"id":1423,"date":"2016-02-26T09:52:42","date_gmt":"2016-02-26T09:52:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/gops.org\/?p=1423"},"modified":"2024-07-10T07:15:39","modified_gmt":"2024-07-10T01:45:39","slug":"hampi-where-ruins-come-alive","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gops.org\/?p=1423","title":{"rendered":"HAMPI, WHERE RUINS COME ALIVE !"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"VITTALA<\/a>

VITTALA TEMPLE, HAMPI<\/p><\/div>\n

Rivers are like the lifeblood of a nation, shaping its history and development. The ancient Vijayanagara empire, for example, thrived along the banks of rivers, with its roots intertwined with folklore and mythology when explored further.<\/p>\n

The river Pampa served as the vital artery of a magnificent civilization in the southern state of Karnataka, India. Evidence of ancient settlements can be discovered on the Northern bank of the river (Anegundi), linking back to the legendary tales of Ramayana and the monkey kingdom of Kishkindha. Explore more about Anegundi here >><\/a><\/p>\n

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TUNGABHADRA (PAMPA) RIVER FLOWING BETWEEN HAMPI AND ANEGUNDI<\/p><\/div>\n

The southern shores of the river were the backdrop for a sequence of conflicts and occurrences that trace back to the era of Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BC. The term “Hampe” in Kannada originated from “Pampa” and was later anglicized to “Hampi” under British influence.<\/p>\n

The river formerly known as Pampa is now called Tungabhadra, and it continues to flow quietly amidst the remnants of the Vijayanagara empire. This piques the interest of every traveler. What could have caused the downfall of such a great empire?<\/p>\n

The Tunga and Bhadra rivers have their source in the Western Ghats, flow across the plains of Karnataka, and converge 150 kilometers to the east before embarking on a further 530-kilometer journey to meet the Krishna River in Andhra Pradesh. A dam located on the Tungabhadra river near Hampi in Hospet not only generates electricity but also provides irrigation to the nearby villages.<\/p>\n

Hampi, located near the industrial city of Hospet in Karnataka’s Bellary district, is now a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can find various accommodation options in Hospet, Kamalapur, or Hampi. There are also some good restaurants near the Virupaksha temple.<\/p>\n

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VIRUPAKSHA TEMPLE, HAMPI. SEEN FROM THE TOP OF MATANGA HILL<\/p><\/div>\n

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THE HISTORY OF HAMPI<\/strong><\/p>\n

The Vijayanagara Kingdom was constantly at risk from Mughal invaders from the North, yet its advantageous position between the powerful river and the hills provided strategic benefits.<\/p>\n

In the early stages, Hampi was under the control of the Kampli rulers until the Mughal ruler Muhammed bin Tughluq conquered it in 1327 AD. Two courageous local chieftains, Hakka (Harihara) & Bukka rebelled against the Mughals and recaptured the Kingdom, establishing their local capital on the southern banks of Pampa river. They named the new empire Vijayanagara or \u2018the city of victory\u2019 and became the founders of this great Kingdom at Hampi. There is also a version that suggests the city was named Vidyanagara in honor of their guru Vidyaranya. Over the next 200 plus years (1336 AD \u2013 1565 AD), it changed hands from Kakatiyas, Hoysalas, Yadavas, and Pandyas until it fell under the rule of Vijayanagara. Four dynasties governed Vijayanagara, namely the Sangama Dynasty (1336-1490), Saluva Dynasty (1490-1509), Tuluva Dynasty (1503-1570), and Aravidu Dynasty (1565-1646). King Krishna Deva Raya of Tuluva Dynasty reigned from 1509 to 1530, considered the Golden Period of Vijayanagara empire. He engaged in over a dozen wars and emerged victorious in each one.<\/p>\n

\"BEAUTIFUL<\/a>

BEAUTIFUL VIEW OF HAMPI AND ITS GREEN SURROUNDINGS. AS SEEN FROM THE TOP OF MATHANGA HILL<\/p><\/div>\n

Domingos Paes, a Portuguese explorer and merchant, had journeyed to the Vijayanagara Empire around 1520, during the rule of Krishnadevaraya. He ascended the highest hill, likely Mathanga hill, in the area to behold the entire Kingdom and drew parallels with Rome in his travel writings. His elaborate accounts provide a glimpse into the fortified city, flourishing art scene, cultural festivities, grand temples, bustling markets, and the royal precincts.<\/p>\n

Krishnadevaraya was not only an exemplary monarch, but also a distinguished intellectual and poet. His literary works continue to be revered in modern-day literature. He was the visionary behind many of the enduring architectural marvels that still stand today. The Vijayanagara rulers even dispatched envoys to nations like China to facilitate trade. The splendor and magnificence of Vijaynagar were renowned throughout the Asian subcontinent, parts of Europe, and the Middle East. During his reign, bustling marketplaces thrived where precious gems like pearls, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds were extravagantly traded on the streets. These once vibrant bazaar streets now lie abandoned in Hampi, with only a handful of vendors selling fruits, while cows and monkeys roam about in search of a morsel.<\/p>\n

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COURTESAN’S STREET UNDER THE FOOTHILLS OF MATHANGA, WHERE THEY USED TO SELL JEWELS, PEARLS & ORNAMENTS<\/p><\/div>\n

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WHO PLACED THAT ROCK THERE ? MYSTERY OF BOULDERS AT HAMPI<\/p><\/div>\n

The connection between Hampi and Ramayana is intriguing, as many places in and around Hampi still bear the names mentioned in the epic. The landscape of Hampi is characterized by an unusual sight of endless boulders, stacked in heaps across hills and valleys. This phenomenon has piqued the interest of onlookers, with geologists attributing it to millions of years of exposure to natural elements like sun, wind, and rain. The continuous heating and cooling may have caused the rocks to crumble, while erosion over time could have removed the sand particles between them. The mystery of these perfectly balanced rocks continues to fascinate observers.<\/p>\n

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WHO PLAYED THAT BALANCING GAME ?<\/p><\/div>\n

Mythology offers a different interpretation of this phenomenon. According to legend, the region encompassing Hampi and Anegundi was once part of the Monkey Kingdom (Kishkindha) as described in the Hindu epic Ramayana. Rishimukh hill, Anjaneya hill, Mathanga hill, and others were believed to be the abodes of monkey kings Vali (Bali), Sugreeva, Hanuman, and their companions. The rock formations are thought to be the result of the monkey warriors testing their might. Local residents are eager to guide you to the spot where Hanuman encountered Rama and Lakshmana in their quest for Sita, as well as the location where Vali and Sugriva engaged in their decisive battle. The influence of Ramayana is apparent in the numerous motifs and temples scattered throughout the vicinity.<\/p>\n

During Rama Raya’s reign, the Vijayanagara empire engaged in frequent conflicts with Muslim rulers. The pivotal battle of Talikota in 1565 saw Rama Raya’s forces clash with an alliance of four Deccan Sultans. Following a brutal confrontation, Rama Raya was executed, the Muslim army pillaged the city, desecrated Hindu temples, destroyed idols, and massacred civilians. Historical records indicate that the looting persisted for more than half a year in order to deplete the empire’s riches. The once magnificent empire was left devastated and never regained its former glory.<\/p>\n

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Presently, we shall embark on a leisurely walk around Hampi. The vast expanse covers 26 square kilometers, making it impossible to explore in just a day or two. Make sure to equip yourself for a lengthy hike, bringing an ample supply of water and snacks. Alternatively, you may opt to rent a moped or bicycle to navigate through the ancient ruins. Additionally, exercise caution around the playful monkeys, known for their adeptness in snatching food and personal items.<\/p>\n

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I HAD AN ENCOUNTER WITH THIS DEADLY COBRA DURING THE TREK. WATCH YOUR STEP. TAKE CARE<\/p><\/div>\n

Hampi is a photographer’s paradise, offering a plethora of subjects ranging from ruins and temples to landscapes and street scenes. The images showcased here were taken on various occasions and in different weather conditions. Achieving that ideal shot requires a great deal of commitment, effort, and patience.<\/p>\n

I frequently encounter many tourists caught up in selfie fever, who love taking their own photos in front of a partially broken statue or while hanging onto the temple ruins.<\/p>\n

I understand and appreciate people’s personal interests, but it’s important to remember that Hampi is also a place of pilgrimage. Please be mindful of the art and religious feelings of the locals.<\/p>\n

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A TALE OF TAILS FROM THE MONKEY KINGDOM<\/p><\/div>\n

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MONKEY STYLE KUNGFU ! MIND THOSE NAUGHTY MONKEYS.<\/p><\/div>\n

Watching the sunrise from the peak of Mathanga hill is a must-do ritual in Hampi, offering an unforgettable experience. I woke up early and made my way to Hampi Bazaar street by 5:30 AM. As I strolled past the Nandi bull statue and headed towards Achyutharaya temple, the sky painted a beautiful array of colors while the moon shone brightly above.<\/p>\n

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ON THE WAY TO MATHANGA HILLS BEFORE SUN RISE<\/p><\/div>\n

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THE TREACHEROUS TRAIL LEADING TO MATHANGA PEAK<\/p><\/div>\n

I made it to the base of Mathanga in just 15-20 minutes and found the narrow path to the summit using my flashlight. The trail was quite dangerous, with broken steps and sharp rocks that made walking painful. Be careful where you step!<\/p>\n

I quickly discovered that the sandals I had on didn’t provide enough traction, so I should have packed hiking shoes instead. Safety standards are pretty much non-existent, so you’re basically on your own.<\/p>\n

I made it to the summit in just 20 minutes, and as I looked out, the sun was beginning to rise over the rugged horizon.<\/p>\n

It was truly an amazing sight, and I began taking pictures of the scenery in every direction. Mathanga is the highest point on the South side of the Tungabhadra river. From there, you can see the Achyutharaya temple, Courtesan\u2019s street, Virupaksha temple, and the river. The views are absolutely stunning.<\/p>\n

\"SPECTACULAR<\/a>

SPECTACULAR VIEW OF SUN RISE FROM MATHANGA PEAK WITH ACHYUTHARAYA TEMPLE AT THE BOTTOM<\/p><\/div>\n

\"WHEN<\/a>

WATCHING THE SUNRISE FROM MATHANGA HILL<\/p><\/div>\n

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AERIAL VIEW OF TUNGABHADRA RIVER & HAMPI VILLAGE FROM MATHANGA HILL<\/p><\/div>\n

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HAMPI REALLY ROCKS! YOU WILL GET CARRIED AWAY…<\/p><\/div>\n

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AERIAL VIEW OF ACHYUTHARAYA TEMPLE & COURTESAN’S STREET<\/p><\/div>\n

As I was returning from Mathanga Hills, I decided to visit Achyutharaya temple and the Courtesan’s street. Unfortunately, the temple was in a state of complete ruin. I learned that the large towers (gopura) in front of the temple were destroyed by Mughal invaders in search of precious stones.<\/p>\n

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RUINS OF ACHYUTHARAYA TEMPLE WITH MATHANGA HILL IN THE BACKDROP<\/p><\/div>\n

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GOPURA OF ACHYUTHARAYA TEMPLE DESTROYED BY INVADERS<\/p><\/div>\n

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ENTRY GATE OF ACHYUTHARAYA TEMPLE, FACING THE COURTESAN’S STREET<\/p><\/div>\n

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MAGNIFICENT PUSHKARNI POND IN FRONT OF ACHYUTHARAYA TEMPLE<\/p><\/div>\n

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LAKHSMI NARASIMHA IDOL AT HAMPI<\/p><\/div>\n

The pathway stretching from Achyutharaya temple to Vittala temple is famously called the courtesan’s street. It is approximately 50 meters wide and half a kilometer in length. On either side of the street, you will find piles of intricately carved pillars that once belonged to grand pavilions. In the empire’s golden era, these pavilions were bustling marketplaces where precious gems like pearls, rubies, emeralds, diamonds, and ivory were traded.<\/p>\n

Across the street, you can find the ancient pond known as Pushkarni. I spent a few minutes there, reflecting on its rich history and taking in the breathtaking scenery. It’s amazing to think that this ancient pond never dries up, even during the hottest part of summer. My other post about Anegundi (click here) explains how the waterways were strategically constructed to provide water for this powerful kingdom. It’s fascinating to learn that they had the foresight to implement a rainwater harvesting system to gather and channel water from the surrounding highlands to nourish the land below.<\/p>\n

Next on my list was the Lakshmi Narasimha temple. The Narasimha statue inside is known to be one of the biggest and suffered the most damage during the Mughal invasion.<\/p>\n

The statue created by Krishnadeva Raya in 1528 AD featured Goddess Lakshmi seated on the lap of Narasimha avatar. Unfortunately, it was destroyed by invaders. The remaining monolithic statue stands at a height of approximately 6.7m, with a seven hooded naga positioned above its head.<\/p>\n

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THE ELDERLY PRIEST IN FRONT OF THE MASSIVE BADAVI LINGA<\/p><\/div>\n

Next to the Lakshmi Narasimha temple, you can find a huge monolithic Shiva Linga (Badavi linga) partially submerged in running water. According to legend, this linga was constructed by a poor woman (badava), which is how it got its name. It is said that the linga possessed such great power that it needed to be kept cool by the water. Even today, it is revered and worshipped in the inner chamber filled with 2-3 feet of water.<\/p>\n

The Sasvekalu and Kadalekalu Ganesha statues are well-known in Hampi and just a short walk away from Badavi Linga. After exploring these impressive monolithic idols, I headed towards Virupaksha temple.<\/p>\n\n\t\t